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Page 11 of 13 1 2 9 10 11 12 13
Joined: Dec 2008
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DaveW Offline OP
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Yes I understand that Richard. It was immediately after disconnecting the CTEK.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 6
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Hello,
I think I'm going crazy.
Our 2016/2017er Plus 4 has now also caught it.
It no longer starts. The immobilizer does not open.
The lamp blinks.
In the past it never started under 12.5 volts. Then the tension became he always needs higher 12.6 Volt - 13.0 Volt.
The lamp always flashes. You can hear the starter for 1 second.
What have I done?
New battery
Coil for the immobilizer as close as possible to the key.
Tried another key:
Wire from battery negative to bulkhead negative.
The plug under the dash port have every time 0,2 volts lesser than the battery.
The instrument from the car shows the worth of the battery. Is this a problem?

I need help

Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 243
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I have the same issue on mine... It looks like the circuit ring that is rounded (sorry for my English bad wording) on the barrel is moved a bit away.
I dismount the plastic cover twice to move it closer but now I found easy two tricks:
Or I ensure when I put the key in the barrel that the hole of the key identifier is above
Or I just put the key with the sensor laterally against the barrel for few seconds until the immobilizer ligh stop and then key in an to for new adventures woohoo

Joined: Aug 2013
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Talk Morgan Addict
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Dave this first came to light (well my light) for me in 2008, I had just bought a new +4 and it had the random start issue then total failure. I rang the selling dealer Allon Whites and Phil Benfield advised I check the sensor ring said he had seen quite a few with the issue.

Back then MMC secured them in position with a thin cable tie, Phil’s solution was to fit a wider cable tie but I fitted two thick and one thin to fill the gap and hold the ring tight against the cowl plastic. It never failed to start again.

Maybe MMC finally got round to sorting it by fitting neoprene?

BR
Colin


BR Colin
Who used to be a Spanner Juggler
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If you put it laterally against the barrel move it a bit, style small circle it helps stirpot
Hope it will also work for you


Dada,
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DaveW Offline OP
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My sensor ring is spaced right out. I removed the plastic behind the leather, (my cowl has a leather cover).

It still doesn't work on first start on a cold morning in the garage although after that first start it's fine all day.

Wiping the key around the ring deactivated the immobiliser.

I removed and reattached the engine earth strap, and the one in the rear offside corner in the spare wheel well, but the quirk has remained. It didn't emerge for the first 18 months.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Posts: 243
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Of course you can still remove the plastic cover put some spacer behind the circuit ring to move it closer to the key if it do not work with my stupid trick getcoat


Dada,
Plus Six "Samantha" (the wooden witch)
Joined: Apr 2017
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I have printed a holder for the spool. I can push the spool up to the key but the lamp flashes

How can I post a picture?

www.pau-hana.de/mogi1.jpg

Last edited by Mogi; 05/03/20 12:36 AM.
Joined: Nov 2015
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Just barreling along
Talk Morgan Guru
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Originally Posted by Spanner Juggler

Maybe MMC finally got round to sorting it by fitting neoprene?

BR
Colin


I hope they got design rights & permission signed off by Dave W grin2


Jon M
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Kev,i think what you have is a Sterling Excel Thatcham Cat 2 Immobilisor as i have fitted to my "Nearly Supersport", i think that's possibly what Omex recommended for the Supersport set up. Check on your torpedo, does it say "Stirling"...handy to know! if you should have an issue, however touch wood...its possibly a better bit of kit than mentioned above. anyway dont tell the world but its (not) easliy unscrewed and overriden in a remote part of the car, a location of which if i were to tell you i would have to immediatly shoot you.

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