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Joined: Apr 2017
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M
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Hello if you are still interested.
My Morgan no longer opened the immobilizer.
After days of searching.
The lines on the coil were both off and were only on the solder joint.
The cable connecting the immobilizer to the coil is very thin. The copper is dark
oxidized. The connectors on the imobolizer were crimped very poorly.
I took a good 20 AWG cable and the plugs are now gold plated.
Now the immobilizer opens at 12.3 volts. The key is 6 cm away from the lock and opens the immobilizer.
So if you have your coil as close to the key as possible, you have a problem. Because it is not necessary if the system works correctly.
I hope you understand it because my english is not good.
Best regards Ralf

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Makes perfect sense to me.
Thanks


JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
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That's another job for my list...………………….


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Added on the "do to" list.
Thanks for the tips thumbs

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DaveW Offline OP
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I'm bumping this post again, as a result of the post yesterday about immobilisers from down under.

Today I revisited my immobiliser. In the end, the only way to get the sensor loop close enough to the key fob is to enlarge the hole in the shroud. There's no way of making this pretty. Previously I had reinforced the back of the top section of shroud, because the small screws make a mess of the plastic if you don't take a lot of care. So I've araldited some aluminium sheet behind each screw, and then covered that in leather to stop any chafing of wires.

This image shows my previous attempt at pushing the loop towards the key. The loop is hanging to the left of the lock barrel. This time I repositioned the padding even further out, and enlarged the hole so that the loop protrudes through the cowl.

[Linked Image]

There's no tidy way of covering the messy result of this, although sometime I may have another go at it. For now, a circle of black leather protects the loop and tidies it up. I used double sided tape, so it can be removed easily should the need arise.

[Linked Image]

It has worked every time as it should after doing this modification.


DaveW
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Hi Dave,

Many thanks for this post, last week the same problem occurred on my 2015 GDI narrow bodied plus 4, galvanised chassis; thought you might like to know the problem is starting to occur on the earlier galvanised chassis cars. Your post was the "key" to getting my immobiliser to recognise my key. I'll wait till its warmer to look further but at least i can now take the plus 4 out for the occasional spin!

Steve

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DaveW Offline OP
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Hi Steve. Yes it will be a recurring problem, especially on the first cold morning start.

In the end I relocated the sensor ring basically on the outside of the shroud, with a cover and since then, so far, 100% reliable.

[Linked Image]


DaveW
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Dave my car is 2014 plus 4 and been having the same problems ,on and off for ages, after I leather covered the cowl. So now I have done what you have now done and made the hole in the cowl and leather the same size as the ring,and moved the ring to the edge of the cowl ,and no problems since,so it should work.duncan ( parked next to you at Mogfest)


duncan series 1 climax, TR +4, plus 4 GDI
SSL F&R suspension
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DaveW Offline OP
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Originally Posted by series1
Dave my car is 2014 plus 4 and been having the same problems ,on and off for ages, after I leather covered the cowl. So now I have done what you have now done and made the hole in the cowl and leather the same size as the ring,and moved the ring to the edge of the cowl ,and no problems since,so it should work.duncan ( parked next to you at Mogfest)

Oh yes I remember our chat! thumbs


DaveW
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Yep, For an open top car, actually open from every direction the insulation of the immobilizer coil is poor. on beefed up quality connections are a good fix. If you find your car has immobiliser issues re. starting/cancelling then this is a first line of repair, after all it doesn't happen in a ford.

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