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Joined: Mar 2014
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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To be fair, the instructions do not mention loctiting the bolt shank although I guess that it would be difficult not to spread some here when inserting the loctited thread.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Andy
Joined: Nov 2011
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Talk Morgan Guru
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Talk Morgan Guru
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Originally Posted by Ricardo
A couple of months ago I had my belt changed at the car's 3k service. It had lots of cracks on the outside skin as JP describes above. It was sent back to Morgan at their request, presumably for further investigation or claim against S&S. Best get these belts checked regularly......
My M3W is a late 2016

Good idea...


A Morgan Identified Fastidious Owner...
2011 4/4 Bespoke, 1981 Delorean, Auburn Boat Tail
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 26
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Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 26
I have four cam sprocket lock pins for giveaway if anyone wants them, just private message me.

These are the pins you use to lock the cam belt sprockets in place while you change the belt. I have four to give away but you only need three.

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 26
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Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
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The pins have been given away.

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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Yesterday I replaced my early idler pulleys with the later snap-ring type. I must admit that I found fitting them a bit of a pig, even though I've replaced the timing belt in the past without too much of a struggle. The lightbulb moment came when I realised that if you work the small o-ring along the thread of the bolt, the pulley bearing will slip between the stepped washers, thus allowing much more wriggle room.

[Linked Image]

Then both bolts can be done up finger tight before you push the pulleys against the belt and correctly locate the bearings between the stepped washers.

[Linked Image]

For reference:
S&S 106-0696, 'Front' Idler Pulley (RHS on M3W)
S&S 106-0697, 'Rear' Idler Pulley (LHS on M3W)
Idler bolts torque:
15-18ft-lb (20-24Nm)


Andy
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