Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Diagnosis please?

I like the last option!

Option?!!!!

Ah, OK, compulsory!

Well I followed the above routine, including all mandatory elements, and I can report that the problem is STILL THERE.
I changed the switch and went out for 15 miles cruising, at which point the car started to drop power on a feathered throttle. This was followed by an eight mile blast with plenty of ‘go for Christmas’ which resulted in dropping power under hard acceleration, and hesitancy about restoring power on the throttle. Again, no fault codes. There is no suction effect in the fuel tank.
So, that probably eliminates the switch.
To recap
The fault started the day after a service (after a faultless 50 mile drive home), after about 60 miles into a tootling run.
It didn’t occur over some essential 25 mile journeys with intervals between.
Then appeared after 80 miles run this w/e and is still there.
Taking anaesthetic prophylactics as a given, what other would you do next?

Somethings getting hot then..

I'm still suspicious of the fuel pump...

Simon @ SiFab.co.uk

sifabtemporary@gmail.com

SFG, To be on the safe side I have read all your posts again very briefly.
So far I see you have changed your brake light switch. This is an Apem 1212 NC. The switch on the right side. Is that correct?

Did you replace the left side switch also in the meantime? I do not see a post where you would mention it. It's an Apem 1213 NO.
To make a test drive as long as you do not have a new switch, please connect both wires of the left switch together like I show it on page 16 of this thread in the picture. Then I bet a bottle of single malt that the bug is gone.

Thanks Simon I’ll give that a go: are the pipe connections re-usable,or do I need to order some, please?
I think the Morgan part no is MPS0886:
Melvyn doesn’t list one for a 2012 4/4 Sigma -promising, means they are usually reliable
CBS doesnt seem to have One like it

Does anyone know if the pump is proprietary, and if so,......
Please

Heinz yes today’s post was because I have now changed both switches with no improvement. I adjusted the fuel cut off switch carefully to ensure it operates at the same pedal position
Please send whisky or Instead suggest another possibility for me to try !!!!

So another recommendation was to remove the plug of the throttlebody and clean it.
If all this is useless I would also unplug the throttle pedal and clean the plug with contact spray. I would do the same with the plug of the Maf Sensor.

It can be so many things. Maybe you also could need a new throttle pedal. But before changing it I would do the other measurements. I do not know of course if the symptoms of the drop outs are the same as with my car. Have you thought about to change the coilpack, which is not too expensive, I bought one from NGK a year ago.

Afterwards I like to talk about the whisky again.

Simon, if the fuel pump is the culprit, would you see the throttle body closing in the OBD2 live scan during the dropouts as I saw it due to the bad switch?

Heinz,
The MAF sensor is clean. I couldn't get the throttle sensor connector off, but I soaked it in contact cleaner - (not very scientific)

I couldn't get the throttle pedal connector off either! It's a bit cramped down there.

While I try to locate a fuel pump spare I'll chase down a coil pack, I expect someone knows where to get that in the UK.

I think I'll toast the elimination of the switch as a culprit with a sip of Laphroig tonight, and I hope you do too!