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Talk Morgan Addict
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Thank you all👍

Not only were there not a front baffle in one muffler but the second baffle in one at 44” in is a different baffle than the other side which is in a bit deeper! They are not remotely the same pipes.

Last edited by LightSpeed; 28/05/20 07:55 PM.

The light at the end of the tunnel is actually a train. 2019 M3W

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You can't beat quality.....

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Originally Posted by Dab of oppo
You can't beat quality.....


😂😂😂


The light at the end of the tunnel is actually a train. 2019 M3W

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Well today I discovered one pipe had baffles at from the front 44, 52 and 11 from the rear.

The other pipe was from the front 44, 52 and 11 from the rear.

So one pipe had 4 baffles and the other 3. It makes me wonder if the ECU was programmed to compensate for unequal back pressure.


The light at the end of the tunnel is actually a train. 2019 M3W

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Lightspeed is that a typo as you quote same figures both sides 3 baffles? I hole cut the front baffle both sides but did not check positions or numbers.

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Very impressed you guys doing baffle removals... spent yesterday trying to separate the exhaust from the front pipes and not getting anything to shift despite peeling the connector back...


M3W5sp 2015, MSCC, MTWC, Oxon UK
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Originally Posted by TimG
Lightspeed is that a typo as you quote same figures both sides 3 baffles? I hole cut the front baffle both sides but did not check positions or numbers.


No, there were three baffles on one side and four baffles on the other side.

PaulV, be patient and put plenty of penetrating fluid, like WD-40, on the joint but clean the rest of the area with something like acetone to make it a non-slip surface for a pair of opposing silicone strap wrenches to grip and wiggle the pipe to free it.

I would be careful and support the headpipe so it does not do anything bad to the connection on the cylinder head.


The light at the end of the tunnel is actually a train. 2019 M3W

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Originally Posted by LightSpeed

PaulV, be patient and put plenty of penetrating fluid, like WD-40, on the joint but clean the rest of the area with something like acetone to make it a non-slip surface for a pair of opposing silicone strap wrenches to grip and wiggle the pipe to free it.

I would be careful and support the headpipe so it does not do anything bad to the connection on the cylinder head.

Thanks Stephen - yes am using copious amounts of WD40. Wedged the headers with wood blocks to the suspension to avoid stressing the headers... the silicon strap is a great device so thanks to whoever suggested that! Will tackle next weekend as hunching over that exhaust linkage isnt good for my back wink

Last edited by PaulV; 31/05/20 01:46 PM.

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I hear you with that! I had mine lifted in the air two feet so I didn’t have to hunch over to far while sitting on the floor. It was a real pain to separate the pipes because of the glue they use. When I put them back together I puts some Anti-Seize on the inside of the headpipe so slipping the exhaust pipe/muffler into it would not leave a mess on the exposed pipe. Still clean with acetone or denatured alcohol to get all remaining grease off the pipes before you fire it up, otherwise it will leave ugly mess on the pipes.


The light at the end of the tunnel is actually a train. 2019 M3W

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When I first test drove a M3W in 2014 I fell in love with the exhaust note. I placed an order and received mine in April, 2015. The first time I drove mine I was disappointed because my exhaust note didn’t sound like the one I drove at the dealer with stock exhausts. I came to realize that my exhaust was probably more restrictive to meet emission requirements. Eventually I installed the Morgan Aero Racing Stage 1 pipes and Stealth high flow air filter and the Stage 2 cams and ECU from Garage 56. Engine runs very well but still have noticed some pinging. Again I didnt like the harsh louder exhaust note of the Stage 1 pipes but have lived with it for a few years.

So after reading through this thread I decided to drill out the front baffles of my stock exhausts leaving the two back baffles untouched which already have multiple holes in them. I used a standard home drill with two Diablo 12” long extensions for a 3/8” hex shank ( the front baffle is 24” from the end ) and a Milwaukee 38mm by 1 1/2” bimetal hole saw as pictured below. These extensions are very strong but at 2 feet there is still some slight wobble at the hole saw. I had to remove the starter drill bit and just used the hole saw because the drill bit wouldn’t start a hole. A low rpm was used and because of the slight wobble more grinding than sawing was taking place. It took a lot of time and fatigue to get this done but made nice holes.

I installed the pipes and have been very richly rewarded. The exhaust note is now everything I’ve wanted. A soft mellow bass note that comes alive with acceleration but not harsh in any way. I like the sound much better that my Aero Racing Stage 1 pipes and the original stock pipe configuration. The engine runs very smoothly with plenty of power. I left my cats in place. I believe the exhaust is free enough to accommodate the Stage 2 cams. The header pipes don’t glow red. No backfiring with deceleration now but still some pinging with hard acceleration. I’m going to have the unlocked ECU from Garage 56 remapped for my present configuration on the open road. Hopefully we can reduce the pinging that has been ever present.

I would strongly urge anybody who is considering Stage 1 to simply drill out the front solid baffles and install a high flow air filter.

My next item is to install Ohlins to improve the ride and I’ll be in Nirvana.

Thanks for all the collective experience in this forum to finally me get to where I want to be.

[Linked Image]


Last edited by Sportster; 17/06/20 02:39 AM.

2015 M3W, Morgan Aero Racing Stage 1, Garage 56 Stage 2, sport black, saddle tan, jeweled SS dash.
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