Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Diagnosis please?

It was definitely a big help!

However, why did it work properly for so long beforehand? My target is to get the switch back into operation: I think possibly switch adjustment, ecu needing reboot, or mapping issue.but I won’t bore everyone with all that.
Odd that I didn’t get a steer along the right lines from any official sources.

I think someone suggested earlier that the if the brake pedal had been released suddenly on occasions then the adjustment or internal workings of the switch could have been affected. It could just be normal wear and tear that has brought on the problem or even a poor design of switch in the first place.

You would think that the dealers would be aware of the problem and how to set up and adjust the new switch.Failing this have you thought of contacting the service department at MMC when they return to work?

The way I see it. In my case, there were other actions taken before regarding this problem where I thought I had the solution because it worked for a few months. But it was always a random result. Now, with the switch, it's the first time that I was able to deliberately cause the error and also deliberately remove the error.
My old switch is definitely not good anymore. You can feel the button rubbing. It is possible that it still conducts current, but a) with loose contact and b) probably with slightly increased ohmic resistance. The control unit seems to be very sensitive and the full voltage must be switched through.

As I said before, you can drive well with bridged cable, without a switch. But you have to use a lot more brake power in the pedal, because without a switch the engine revs decrease much slower.

One more word about my new switch. It is exactly the right one. It has a knurled nut and a hexagon nut. The hexagon nut is on the side towards the driver. This hexagon nut is too thick! That's why the knob can't get close enough to the brake pedal. So instead of the hex nut I used the thinner washer that was on the driver side of the first original switch.

SFG, I would first realize this correct switch position and look. I would not question the mapping now when everything is working again. Otherwise it gets too complicated and now everything is on the home stretch.
To be perfectly honest, Stuart, I'd go a few weeks without a switch as it is now. Then you can be sure the mistake won't happen again. And after that time, you can think about putting the switch back in the right position.

I think it's not boring at all. For such topics the great TM forum is there and helpful. Sometimes a user is closer to the cause of a defect than an official garage is because of a long relationship with our car. And as I said, such a switch is a wearing part. It just gets worse over time until it doesn't work anymore.

Except that a new switch didn’t cure it!

is it only me...or was it actually the new coil pack that cured it, as suggested by Paul F a few threads back?

It might have been, but only by cosmic osmosis. I didn’t fit it, because the screws were wrong thread, and I found I’d cured it before it was needed. Now I have a brand new NGK coil pack for sale.

Personally, I'd keep it in the 'touring spares' pack

Too heavy for that. I’d have to ditch 15 pairs of her shoes!