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On long trips I have been known to take the big wooden spanner...

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Originally Posted by Selena
Having grown up with British motorbikes I have long been intimately familiar with The Prince of Darkness. My first bike was a 1940's Matchless, ex War Dept, girder forks and with the Lucas electrics sandwiched between the engine and clutch, requiring almost complete disassembly at every failure which was ll too frequent. The Americans ask why do the Brits drink warm beer? Because their refrigerators are made by Lucas!

2017 Black M3W
2000 M5 BMW
2018 Subaru AWD (winter)
Previous toys: Matchless, AJS, Norton


englandwave cheers joy Oh yeah.

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Originally Posted by Dab of oppo
On long trips I have been known to take the big wooden spanner...

So have I, but don’t let Het hear me call her that! 😱

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You could always strap it to the back of your luggage rack so it looks like a propellor.

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Hope it's ok that I add a few 'newbie' questions to this thread instead of opening a new one...

Engine Temp - without a gauge, how do you know when operating temp has been reached and harder driving can be done? is it best to start the engine and let it run for a bit before setting off?

Headlamp Clips - is there a trick to this?1 lol. I can tear apart an engine and put it back yet those clips are doing my head in. I put in my tri-bars and for the life of me I couldn't get all the clips back in. It's like the ends of the clips didn't want to get under the lip of the outer ring. So now I only have a few clips in place as the others are not budging and/or I've bent them. What a horrid design!

Drivetrain - on very little throttle and lower rpm, I can hear what I can only describe as a slight hollow type noise coming from the centre tunnel. Very low frequency and not metal like whatsoever. Not knowhow what's all under there and how the drivetrain is fully set up is likely what is stumping me on said noice. Doesn't sound harmful. Just odd.

Seat bases - do yours sit just behind the metal L bracket on the floor? The leading edge of mine sits on top so can slide forward easily enough. I've tried shoving them back but the leading edge won't tuck down and up against it. I also noticed that the heated seat connectors are just sitting there under the base and I sense the base isn't sitting 100% flush. Are the connections and wire just left there as they are?

Many thanks! Hope to have a first impressions post up soon, once I get a bit more seat time and some of the niggles sorted. smile

P



Last edited by Perry_P_M3W; 13/07/20 09:17 PM.
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Originally Posted by Perry_P_M3W
Hope it's ok that I add a few 'newbie' questions to this thread instead of opening a new one...

Engine Temp - without a gauge, how do you know when operating temp has been reached and harder driving can be done? is it best to start the engine and let it run for a bit before setting off? I PERSONALLY WOULD IDLE A BIT SO THE OIL WAS CIRCULATED BEFORE APPLYING LOAD. ONLY WAY TO CHECK ENGINE TEMPS WITHOUT EXTRA GAUGES IS TO HOOK UP THE ECU TO PROTUNE.

Headlamp Clips - is there a trick to this?1 lol. I can tear apart an engine and put it back yet those clips are doing my head in. I put in my tri-bars and for the life of me I couldn't get all the clips back in. It's like the ends of the clips didn't want to get under the lip of the outer ring. So now I only have a few clips in place as the others are not budging and/or I've bent them. What a horrid design! THOSE ARE A REAL BUGGER, BUT CAN INDEED BE TWISTED INTO PLACE. I SUGGEST DOING IT IN A ROOM WHERE YOU CAN FIND THE CLIP WHEN IT DECIDES TO TAKE FLIGHT.

Drivetrain - on very little throttle and lower rpm, I can hear what I can only describe as a slight hollow type noise coming from the centre tunnel. Very low frequency and not metal like whatsoever. Not knowhow what's all under there and how the drivetrain is fully set up is likely what is stumping me on said noice. Doesn't sound harmful. Just odd.THIS MACHINE MAKES MORE NOISES THAN A BABY RATTLE. I HAVE HAD A NOISE THAT I CANNOT TRACE THAT WILL PROBABLY LEAVE ME STRANDED, HOPEFULLY WITHOUT INJURY TO MYSELF. IF I AM INJURED I AM SURE MORGAN WILL BE NOTIFIED BY MY NEXT OF KIN BECAUSE IT IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY.

Seat bases - do yours sit just behind the metal L bracket on the floor? The leading edge of mine sits on top so can slide forward easily enough. I've tried shoving them back but the leading edge won't tuck down and up against it. I also noticed that the heated seat connectors are just sitting there under the base and I sense the base isn't sitting 100% flush. Are the connections and wire just left there as they are?

Many thanks! Hope to have a first impressions post up soon, once I get a bit more seat time and some of the niggles sorted. smile

P




GOOD LUCK.


Last edited by LightSpeed; 14/07/20 01:23 AM.

2019 M3W Sold and is now in Las Vegas enjoying the showgirls :-)

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Hello P

I'll try to reply to some of your points...

Engine Temp - No idea unless you install an oil temperature gauge as an accessorize. I know some have done it. Let them reply here...

Headlamp Clips - Sorry again never had to remove the headlamps. So....

Drivetrain - Before the gearbox you have the Centa drive, which mission is to absorb the high torque peaks the big V-Twin produces. It uses four "rollers" made out of an elastomer compound. At low rpm and low speeds, you can hear them “clonging” inside the Centa bell house. I guess this is the sound you talk about.

Seat bases - As yours, mine do not really seat flat and behind the bar. Because of the heating seats ' connectors / wires, and maybe because the seat is just few mm too long. But it doesn’t move when you're in. However, I'll soon lift the front part of the seat using a simple wood piece, that will be screwed underneath the seat and will be placed to be just behind the front bar. So, the whole gets more secure, the heating seats' cables and connectors won't be "crushed" and I will gain some comfort as the front of the seat will fit better below my legs being higher.


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How thick of a piece are you planning to put under the seat? My seats sit on top of the bar and I have tried to get the seats under and no luck. My seat does move around some time.


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I screwed a piece of wood about 1” thick under the front edge of the seat. The extra angle makes the seat much more comfortable for me (I’m tall), and it drops securely behind the bar as I set it back slightly from the front of the seat.


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The consensus on letting your engine idle to warm up is idle only briefly say a minute or two. Warming up is a hang over from carburettor fed engines. Fuel injection & cats its better to drive away just dont rev it or let it lug, the engine will warm quicker under load. Cats need to be warm to work so long idles mean more pollution & waste fuel. Cold engines, rich mixtures & thinner multigrade oil mean your cylinder bores may not be fully lubricated so long idles could expose you to the risk for longer. Your transmission, brakes & tyres need to warm up as well & you need to move to do that. You are free to disregard all the foregoing.
The seat base should sit behind the angle, with new upholstery it may be difficult to compress the rear to get it seated. Consider putting a piece of wood 25 x25 mm or 50 X 50 on the front edge of the seat base to raise the front of the cushion. With long legs I find its more comfortable. If happy make brackets to attach to the base.

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