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Joined: Nov 2018
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I use the MOG regularly, but sometimes (most) it‘s a weekend joy.

So one week or a few days more aren‘t a problem a the real world.

She‘ s a nov.2018 plus4.

René


2018 plus4 (sports green)
with a homemade really shiny red tinted dash…
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Just barreling along
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Originally Posted by John07
I'm with Richard on the "they all do that" argument. But MMC have it covered on my 2 year old car as in the hand book it says "If the vehicle is left standing for more than 3 days then it is advised that a battery conditioner is used". So MMC do know it's bad.

I have found that the immobiliser will not unlock but after re-reading DaveW's post on this and using the 20 second rule then the car starts fine with 11.2V on the in car volt meter (which is the same as my test meter).
There is still no answer to my question though of "what the quiescent carrent draw should be?", I have asked the same question of the dealer but he has not replied so far.
I shall have to look into this further and find out whether it's the immobiliser, the clock or something else that's the issue. In my case it could be the battery as it is obvious that the battery cover has been removed many, many times before I bought the car.
Cheers
John


IIRC the dash clock in Mogs is not quartz & is a basic old 12v coil/motor style, it would be interesting to see how many milliamps it draws


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There are only three things using the power all the time.

1) the radio. If it‘s always ready to use it needs a lot of power, if it only keeps the setting - doesn‘t matter.

2) the clock. Forget it.

3) the immobilizer, when you look at the Morgans history when they fit it the problems starts.

Have a look at this points a „kill switch“ fitted between the earth of the battery and the car solves the problem.
Or simple: ondo the earth at the battery.

René


2018 plus4 (sports green)
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You are right, René, I did this with my Roadster. But every time the ECU had to learn the values so it needed ca. 80 km before the engine was „hot“ again.


'14 4/4 graphite grey
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John07 Offline OP
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Gents, the current through the fuses are:-
fuse item current
4A clock .3mA
5A BCU 80mA
1B ECU/immob. starts at 300mA then reduces to 20 to 40ma
3B Inst panel. starts at 100mA then reduces to 3mA
All other fuses have no load.
So the main loss is the BCU and what does that do????

Doing this testing had given me a fuel gauge that needs resetting so if you know how to do this please let me know. But thats for tomorrow.

Cheers
John

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Originally Posted by John07
Gents, the current through the fuses are:-
fuse item current
4A clock .3mA
5A BCU 80mA
1B ECU/immob. starts at 300mA then reduces to 20 to 40ma
3B Inst panel. starts at 100mA then reduces to 3mA
All other fuses have no load.
So the main loss is the BCU and what does that do????

Doing this testing had given me a fuel gauge that needs resetting so if you know how to do this please let me know. But thats for tomorrow.

Cheers
John

Senses for door opening to trigger timed footwell lighting for one.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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John07 Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Richard Wood

Senses for door opening to trigger timed footwell lighting for one.

Oh, some really important stuff then. LoL. smile

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I have found this on a quick search.

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showpost.php?p=2817457&postcount=66

This does not help in the specific case here. But it shows how complex the interaction between the BCU and the ECU can be. The topic starter of the link above has gone crazy as you can see from the number of posts and measurements.

What I just want to say, it might be possible that the BCU doesn't get to sleep in the Morgan Plus 4 because it was programmed for a different body with many more (or different) sensors than a Plus 4 GDI.


'14 4/4 graphite grey
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Yes the BCU does all sorts of things that the ECU does not. Whilst not an accurate reflection, but as a guide, the fuses are split into two banks on the recent +4 Block A and Block B
Block A are things associated with the BCU and Block B the ECU

So the BCU gets involved with the immobiliser, lights, wipers, heated screen etc. It will always be drawing power for the immobiliser and maybe other functions.

You will have noticed that there are only three traditional relays on the +4 that is because four other relays are soldered directly into the BCU

[Linked Image]

Photo is from my 2018 +4 and if you look closely bottom right it is marked +4 suggesting different BCUs for other models.


Tim
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John07 Offline OP
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Tim, Thanks for that info.
I did check the current draw over 90 mins and it does not reduce over time like some other cars.
Cheers
John

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