Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Engine Map

I too had the latest ECU update at 3,000 miles.
Excellent - no more pinking which was relentless at 4,000 rpm when accelerating hard. A really good improvement that even 101 octane petrol didn't solve. Recommended visit to your dealer.

My Oct 2012 car goes well enough but pinks pretty badly and I have hardly ever used full throttle or gone above 4000 rpm as a result (although this is enough most of the time anyway).

Asked BHM to check at the big service a couple of months back and was told I had the latest mapping. If this is indeed the case then there's more work to do.

However, because of my lusty acceleration but also quite pronounced pinking I sniff a large mouse. Just bought an octane booster and will give that a try but not expecting much difference.

Oh - for those in the UK or other salted roads - don't forget to clean your engine very regularly and wipe off the salt. My alloy bits are looking a bit tired and have just invested in various potions to clean and protect a bit...

wiscos - please an update on what potions you favour and any observations on what bits of the car are suffering - that will be me in a few months !

anyone in the states able to get the new map? my dealer is telling me there is no new map for the US.....grr.

I seem to have a lack of power as of late, and I've noticed in the Protune ECM download the Manifold Air Pressure has dropped from previous averages of .42-.45 to .22. I did the front "bafflectomy" a few months back and was loving the performance and sound improvement, but now this. Any thoughts are welcome.

MAP is measured via a sensor on the throttle body. So most likely causes are a dirty or defective sensor, or air leaks at the gaskets where the intake manifold meet the cylinder heads. There have been a number of reports of leakage at those manifold gaskets which often coincides with using an aftermarket air cleaner without support at the front of the cylinder heads. Air leaks are most likely on an older or higher mileage machines. The gaskets are not difficult to change, but it does involve removing/disconnecting pretty much everything between the cylinder heads (fuel system, throttle cable, sensor connectors, etc).

In any case, I would be inclined to look for air leaks first, then failing to find any, I would remove the air cleaner to use a bit of carb cleaner spray on the sensor, as well as to unplug then replugin the sensor.

It's helpful to those of us trying to help you if the year of your machine was in your signature.

When suspecting air leaks in an engine I tended to use a length of flexible pipe, one end to my ear and working the other end around the suspect joints listening out for the hiss to identify the failed inlet gasket. I have used the same method balance the throttles on multiple carb engines, by adjusting the throttles to provide the same degree of hiss, have checked the accuracy of the hiss method by using a flow meter to prove it was a worthwhile method, which it was...

As for the length of pipe I suspect perhaps 3ft or 1meter in length and anything from a garden hose down to circa 3mm bore would work just fine...

I have known of folk spraying Easy Start or similar around a running engine where there was suspected leakage of inlet manifolds and listening for engine rev increases but that seems a tad too dangerous for me ..?

It would seem a pain to strip things down looking for a leaking gasket and finding no gasket issues, other than those created by striping things down..?

Best wished in resolving any such issues...

One additional thing comes to mind that can cause an air leak in the induction system: the vacuum line to the rear mounted evaporative charcoal canister is on the upper right of the throttle body (left, if you are facing the engine). You might try removing that and plugging that vacuum port to see if that changes things. If so, there is a leak somewhere along that line, or at the canister itself.

Would that be the REAR cylinder head or the FRONT cylinder head? Facing the engine from the front of the vehicleor facing the engine from the cockpit?

The vacuum line is on the throttle body, so which cylinder head is not relevant. And as I thought I clearly stated, 'the vacuum line is on the upper right side of the throttle body (left if you are facing the engine)'. Which is to say the vacuum line is on the vehicle right side of the throttle body. Or if you prefer referencing cylinder heads, it would be on the rear cylinder head side. AKA starboard. AKA offside.