Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Rear springs

That’s interesting. I fitted some of Peter’s springs in 2014 and they were exactly the same when I sold the car last year. As you say at least you can take the blocks out.

Roger, ok, You mean the same in terms of sagging?

Yes the gap between the top of the tyres and wheel arches decreased by around 8mm in the first month or so. After that they remained the same in very good condition with no sagging thereafter.

On most cars there is a specified ride height measured with a stated load from a datum point on the chassis to the ground. Might be worth asking MMC for that number. It has to exist because thats part of setting suspension geometry.

On my 2010 4/4 the spring sagged on the driver`s side. Replaced them with Peter Mulberry`s 4 seater springs + adjustable AVO dampers at the same time. Now it is a much better ride. Does not hit the bump stop every time there is an undulation in the road and the whole car is much firmer. Have a word with Cain at Wolf who has a great tool for fitting these springs. It is a so and so on the sport as access is very limited.

Today I was at André Koopmann's Morgan workshop and had the lowering blocks removed.
As you know the leaf springs were a bit sagged. What can I say about the result...I am very happy. The drive of 290 km each direction was worth it and more than that.
The car has the right height in the back from my point of view. Removing the lowering blocks has led to several advantages. I would like to emphasize that some advantages have to do with the right height, no matter if you have lowering blocks or not, i.e. no matter how you have realized the right height.
This includes the greater spring travel and the correct working point of the shock absorbers. Also the weight distribution on the front wheels. This can also be achieved with brand new springs and additional lowering blocks.

In my case it is so that I have additional benefits. The sagged leaf springs are now mounted without LB. I have never had such good control on the car before. Very much eliminated lateral movement and the prevention of leaf spring bending when accelerating are additional points. All the points shown above (alternatively with new spring and lowering blocks) are also fulfilled very well. BTW my LBs are just 1.9 cm but it makes a difference.

I have to say that as long as someone drives around with LBs then Panhard Rods and Anti trump bars are just a work around...at least in the 150 HP class it is not needed if you drive without disturbing LBs and I have some experience with Morgans in different power classes. The goal re the 4/4 is to have a leafspring which does not lift the car too high when removing the LBs.

TBH i think even i could have done without the 4 seater 4 leaf springs if i had the idea in the beginning to keep the OEM springs but remove the LBs. I can highly recommend it to any 4/4 sigma owner before buying and replacing anything else.


before

after

Glad you like the results. Well done.

Heinz that looks so much better.

Looking at that first image and assuming the car was not jacked up on the chassis at the time, was the extension travel being restricted by the proximity of the u-bolts nut to the chassis?

Heinz,
I'm following up Rog's comments. With your car on the ground, no driver or passenger, how much clearance is there between the bump stops on the chassis & the axle?

IIRC Rog found he had just about zero. So when I changed the springs on my 2013 4/4 this Summer & asked for the lowering blocks to be removed I also specified the thinner bump stops listed in the parts book to maintain the clearance.
This resulted in the dampers being too short when the axle was at full drop (ie. resting on the bump stops). So longer dampers were fitted

I've now found that the longer dampers don't compress as much so the full travel on the rear axle is now about 50mm

So my quandary is which solution:

• put the thick bump stops back
• double up the thin bump stops
• custom made dampers

So more info about your set-up would help me make up my mind

Jack, for some different rear dampers try SSL, Dan & Peter should have something already that won't involve a costly bespoke make

http://www.suspensionsupplies.co.uk/home/4593174445