Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Which glue for the hood on the window frame?

I have some tiny G cramps I intend to use for same job. This will allow greater pressure than pegs whilst glue dries.

That's very unlikely. The mohair is very strong and wear resistant. On most hoods this area is not glued. Allowing the hood to flex and move.

As a follow up, having visited Allon White today for some leather work, my easy up headrail seal has been replaced. Shaun and I initially had a discussion about best glue for this. He uses an industrial contact adhesive known as "1358" which used to be available from Dunlop. Even if you can get hold of some its highly corrosive in storage. Next best is super glue but all traces of old adhesive need to be removed.

Although it was not on my list of jobs I wanted them to do, Shaun pronounced my seal knackered when he saw how the left side inner part of seal had doubled over on the down curve. We were both surprised a new seal was under £20 though so a no brainer to have it replaced for only 15 minutes labour. He noticed the factory semi-circular cut-outs on inside of original seal, to accomodate visor supports, were a little too generous and I'd fitted some neoprene into them to help reduce water ingress. As a bonus he only cut the minimum amount out off the new seal for same, so I may have a weather proof car, for a while at least

I also now have door pull straps in matching leather, both seats fitted with inflatable lumber supports and minor leather scuffs attended to leaving leatherwork like new.

Very happy bunny and as a bonus the 170 mile round trip was completed in the dry

He's a very knowlegeable chap Shaun

I'd be nervous of Superglue as it's not very flexible when cured, and some types seem to leave a nasty white bloom as they dry which may be very difficult to get off fabric

Just passing on Shaun's advice Jon although I agree with your thoughts. I had previously used epoxy glue and that also left a white residue. There must be an easily available contact adhesive that surpasses Evostik for example.

BTW it was Shaun's protégée George that did most of the excellent work on my car.

Found this available in 1 litre cans.

Just be careful of any vapours & ventilate the area. This will almost certainly be neoprene dissolved in toluene. The toluene is heavier than air & has a flash point of 7c . It creeps & will ignite very easily.

I think super glue is excellent for the rubber draft excluders on the side screens. For everything else I have found Unibond repair eXtreme is the glue to use. It's readly available, strong, heat resistant, waterproof and flexible. Hoods onto frames, interior mirrors onto windscreens etc. The answer to a maiden's glue requirements. 😍🥰🥳

After all the many valuable tips, I now take the easiest and cheapest way. I try the recommendation of the last post. With this I don't break anything and I don't destroy my airways. If it does not stick enough I can always try something else. So I just learned that Unibond repair extreme is the UK brand name of Pattex repair extreme which is from Henkel in Düsseldorf and therefore I save 11€ of shipping costs of a 6€ product when ordering Unibond instead of Pattex. I will let you know how it works. At least it is not witchcraft and no rocket science.