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tow bar
by G Walker - 24/08/26 06:52 PM
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Jun 14th, 2026
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Quick update on the Mulfab front brake upgrade kit.
I fitted a set of cheap Pagid brake pads (£15.22), which was really easy to do (with the wheels on), and the went out for a 60 mile test drive on a mixture of motorway, urban and country roads, which were mostly dry, but with some damp patches.
The pads gave progressive bite right from the first press of the brake pedal and my overall impression was that the brakes performed much better than I have ever experienced (from new) on my M3W. I'm very happy with them!
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Good to hear it all works well. You may not be any faster out of the corners but a better late braker now, as long as the tyres still grip? They certainly look good.
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One of the things I don't like about my brakes is that there seems to be quite a bit of 'dead' pedal travel before the brakes start to take effect. Does the Mulfab kit address this in any way Austin?
Andy
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Bunny, maybe you need to try bleeding the brakes before doing anything else. If you’ve replaced the rear brake cylinder there may be air in that line. This happened to me and my brake pedal just didn’t feel quite right. I used my compressed air driven one man vacuum bleed kit to bleed the system, but it obviously didn’t shift all the air. The two man method is the most reliable way to bleed brakes in my experience, and one Saturday afternoon I persuaded Julia to pump away at the brake pedal while I fiddled with the bleed valves. This cured the problem and all I then suffered was Julia complaining about her aching leg for an hour or so 😂
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Bunny, maybe you need to try bleeding the brakes before doing anything else. If you’ve replaced the rear brake cylinder there may be air in that line. This happened to me and my brake pedal just didn’t feel quite right. I used my compressed air driven one man vacuum bleed kit to bleed the system, but it obviously didn’t shift all the air. The two man method is the most reliable way to bleed brakes in my experience, and one Saturday afternoon I persuaded Julia to pump away at the brake pedal while I fiddled with the bleed valves. This cured the problem and all I then suffered was Julia complaining about her aching leg for an hour or so 😂 The last time the brakes were bled the car was in at the factory for its pedal box replacement - so I guess anything is possible!
Andy
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Pagid Part numbers?
Last edited by Draggin; 20/11/20 02:09 PM.
kirkusblog.com
2016 M3W John A Prestwich Special
1952 Ford 8N
1968 Honda CL175,and 2018 Ural Retro
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Draggin the pads are for a Volvo 240 1974 -1998
Ref. number might be T5116
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Draggin the pads are for a Volvo 240 1974 -1998
Ref. number might be T5116 Warbird, as these pads only for the upgraded brakes?
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Just Getting Started
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Bunny, maybe you need to try bleeding the brakes before doing anything else. If you’ve replaced the rear brake cylinder there may be air in that line. This happened to me and my brake pedal just didn’t feel quite right. I used my compressed air driven one man vacuum bleed kit to bleed the system, but it obviously didn’t shift all the air. The two man method is the most reliable way to bleed brakes in my experience, and one Saturday afternoon I persuaded Julia to pump away at the brake pedal while I fiddled with the bleed valves. This cured the problem and all I then suffered was Julia complaining about her aching leg for an hour or so 😂 The last time the brakes were bled the car was in at the factory for its pedal box replacement - so I guess anything is possible! I'd advocate bleeding them and replacing with a higher spec brake fluid for sure. I had the dead space and also got REALLY bad brake fade on the track before bleeding and replacing my brake fluid, it made a world of a difference.
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