Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Restoration Morgan's

Allon White has these two on the first page at around the £10k mark for anyone looking for a project.

As I am currently tackling such a project it might be helpful for others to get an idea on the budget required. The numbers I am sharing here are rounded up and merged into major categories. I will have a more detailed overview on this topic in a couple of weeks on my blog FixingC6622

Quite obviously it always depends on the condition of the car. Your decision of what can/should be overhauled and what needs to be replaced will have the biggest impact. Logically, the more tasks you can do yourself - the less labor cost you will have. But if this is going to be your first project - keep in mind you will often need additional tools which can also be quite a bit of money.

Here is a rough break down of my initial budget when I started the project (not including upgrades). This was compiled based on prices I could research via the net and quotes I got in advance (e.g. engine & gearbox overhaul). I was lucky that my car did not need a new chassis and only required minimal welding.

• Engine (complete overhaul + components): 4000€

• Transmission: 1000€

• Bodywork - incl painting: 4500€

• Chassis + support brackets (sandblasting & painting): 1000€

• Suspension (front&back): 1500€

• Steering (overhaul Bishopbox + parts): 800€

• Brakes: 400€

• Wooden Frame: 600€

• Interior: 4000€

• Electronics (including instruments & lights etc): 1500€

• Tools: 800€

• Brightworks (incl rubbers, and small parts: 1200€

• Misc: 1000€

In total a bit more than 20K € for a complete rebuild. The list above includes shipping from the UK for the most parts - I estimate that this adds up to close to 800€.
Since I am planning to drive my Morgan for a long time, I favored usability, safety, and drivability over keeping everything original. This resulted in several component upgrades (e.g. HiSpec brakes, EZ Powersteering, Rutherford suspension, Scuttle rollbar) which add up to the budget above.

As some items above are a bit less expensive in the UK - my assumption is that a minimal budget of 15 to 17K GBP would be required for a full restore. 22 to 27K GBP if you decide for upgrades like I did. 30K GBP plus if you want more performance and go into engine upgrades. These are just ballpark numbers - but based on my project

Looking at the 1987 Morgan 4/4 from the link above I would assume that chassis/panel/body need more budget than my car. Given that a good Morgan 4/4 from 1987 costs between 25 and 35K GBP - I would be tempted to buy it if the price would be between 7 and 8K GBP....


Maybe that helps others here in their decision process
Regards
Tim

Thanks for posting that guide Tim, it will give anyone considering a rebuild today what the real costs involved are just incase they might be tempted by the AW offerings.

While thinking restoration info Perhaps it might be worth beaming up this Wheeler Dealers Youtube vid, the full version where ED replaces a Morgan Chassis..?

https://www.google.com/search?clien...n+full+episode&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Haha - I watched this episode dozens of times. Yes, it is helpful in some parts - but also a bit of an oversimplification. I really would like to know the author of Morgan Rebuild website. This is a super helpful resource and I ow the author plenty of drinks...

What Edd China doesn't mention is the sealant between the wooden frame and the chassis. This was quite sticky stuff and I spent the better part of an evening to carefully separate the two. Also keep in mind that the 1992 car he is working on has a decent looking interior, bulkhead, inner wings and wooden frame. The two cars that +8Rich pointed out look like it could be potentially more work. from the pictures the 1970 fourseater looks a bit better - but I would not be surprised if the wooden frame on the 1987 needs to be completely replaced...

It took me a bit longer than 10 hours (as he mentions) to get the frame off the chassis - something around 80 hours. But then again - This was my first time, I had no additional pair of hands on any job (not even when lifting the frame), no lift and did quite a bit of documentation.

I can only encourage people to take on a Morgan restore project. It is not as hard as it might look as first sight. The fact alone that you can take rotten body parts of, transport them to a shop for welding/refabrication (if you cannot do this on your own) is much easier compared to other cars. Besides: we will have at least another 6 to 9 months of Covid-19 impact - the garage ensures enough social distance - even from your wife and kids !!! :):)

The Wheeler Dealer car was actually rebuilt again, properly, after Mike Brewer and Co had finished with it.

Never mind the sealant, they left out one of the most fundamental jobs on a chassis replacement - setting the crosshead on the chassis!

Get that wrong and the car just won't handle right.

Arwyn

TimB Many thanks for an insight to the restoration processes involved with your Morgan.

As another solo performer I salute your efforts, self reliant folk ever find some way to get the job done... (-: I have not swapped over a chassis on a Morgan but did so on a Land Rover when converting a pick up LWB to a Safari, even replaced a couple of chassis on Lotus cars I once owned, a 60`s Elan and a 70`s Elite.

Fortunately I did not have to restore my mid 80`s +8 as that had been done by Kevin not long before I purchased it, the chassis did not and still does not need any welding repairs such was the care Kevin put into protecting it at the time of rebuild, though when he carried out the work the car had been stored for quite a few years only having covered circa 8K miles from new, and today it still has only covered circa 34K miles.

I thought the Wheeler Dealers vid was excellent in that it provided an insight to the stages involved in the process that I have not seen in vid form elsewhere.. I also agree that Ed does not go fully into every aspect of the tasks he takes on in other restoration and repair projects, I suspect the time constraints of the programme may be the limiting factor.

Anyone who has worked on old vehicles and has encountered corroded nuts and bolts that can soak up large amounts of time to remove them in a bid not to damage components, knows that any such project will take a great amount of time and much else.

As for fixings, when Kevin rebuilt what was then his Morgan he used stainless steel fixings everywhere possible and they still look as good today as they did back then, thus removal of components if and when required should be a simpler task.

By the time one has rebuilt a car one well knows what one is driving..

Arwyn, I was waiting for you to jump in.. All we need now is for K to add a few of his experiences..

Allow me to correct the subject line!

I had a good look at the photos and description of the 4 seater after a friend (on here) pointed it out to me last week.
That brake overhaul was rather expensive (OTT!). With the description of chassis rot etc I would expect parts , if not the whole, body frame would require replacement.
Realistically the car is way over priced, but I expect if someone wants a long term project, they may find it attractive.
At the end of the day, it will cost far more than the car will actually be worth once completed (as with most such restorations).

Arwyn, your post concerns me a bit. After blasting and paining I pretty much just bolted the crosshead into the existing holes. I then measured the distance from the king-pins to two reference points I made in the middle of the chassis. The distance was not exactly equal (7mm difference). I thought that this is typical Morgan tolerance

Maybe I should get my rolling chassis on a trailer and have Andre Koopmann check it??

Is there a way that a DIY weekend mechanic can check this?

Tim

7mm is excessive

You should be looking at 1.5mm maximum

You should check your cross head is straight and not bent/cracked.

You should then measure diagonally from the front rear spring hanger to the bottom of the king pin on the opposite side.

These measurements should be equal but +/- 1.5mm is tolerable

Arwyn