Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Lockdown Layup advice please

During this period of enforced stasis for the Mog I've taken the prudent measures to reduce the adverse effects of long-term layup: tyre pressures up to 40 psi to reduce flat-spotting; fuel stabiliser in an almost-full tank to prevent varnish formation; ACF50 to the seams to forestall corrosion; battery on permanent "conditioner" etc etc.

But I'm also inclined to start her up from time to time to warm things through and get the oil around the bearings, rings etc, but hate the nasty "thrash" that occurs for the first few seconds until the oil pressure gets up. I feel this may well do more harm than good.

Does anyone know if there's an easy way of turning the engine over "sans" ignition to get the oil pressure off the stop before a live firing? In the old days I'd simply have taken the plugs out - or at least the leads off - but that's no easy option with engine management, coil-in-head modern engines (mine's a 3.0 litre Duratec V6).

Is the inertia switch an option - or does that kill the starter motor as well?

All advice gratefully received

You could try whipping out the fuel pump relay and/or fuse, I've not tried it but it might work.

My Roadster kicks off and the pressure climbs immediately. What I've found though is it takes a long time to get the thermostat open, and I usually rev it around 2500-3500rpm as the temperature climbs. Eventually the thermostat opens and the bottom hose gets hot, but it can be 20 minutes.

So I don't start up much in winter, mostly when I'm taking it out.

Thanks for that sage advice chaps. I might just let sleeping dogs lie (modern oils etc) and look forward to our "release". When? Spring? Who knows?

I was intrigued by watching This Guy rebuilding an Alfa twin cam to scrupulous standards, and then setting up a PAS pump affair to pump lube around the motor via the oil filter housing, to prime all the bearings etc, before first start-up, to avoid that initial "grind". I shan't be going to those lengths! But if you're of a geeky engineering mindset, I'd recommend watching Jethro Bonner at work, entirely unaided, rebuilding his beloved Alfas. He seems to have a pretty state-of-the-art workshop setup in South Africa, a meticulous work ethic, but no mates! I'm rather jealous if I'm honest!

Whilst in laid up mode, presuming you have access to the car, I'd be tempted to apply the brake and clutch pedals a few times every couple of weeks. Personally I'd not start it unless i was going to drive and cover 10 miles or so - oil takes longer than the coolant to warm up and not reaching temp will encourage condensation in the oil.
Not a bad idea to check for corrosion in the bulb holders ( ACF50 you have is ideal to prevent it too and is fine on electrics)
Its be said before of course - put the hood up to stop shrinkage ( neverflex versions as opposed to Mohair)

Plan trips and adventures for the future -

+1 Do NOT apply the handbrake...

And work the clutch pedal every week or so to prevent the metal in the friction plate rusting to the fly wheel.

Interesting point on cold starting during lay ups.. I don’t start up that often as I believe most engine wear occurs starting a cold engine. But in reality I’m not sure I need worry. What I don’t like is on the GDI the thing starts within a split second of turning the starter and the revs rise quite high, there doesn’t seem to be a way to control things as you would do in the good old days of manual chokes and wired throttles.

I have fitted an oil pressure gauge though and it certainly gets pressure very quickly.

On the MG TC, a previous owner had cleverly fitted a drilled tube with an oiler over the rockers so that when starting from a lay up you could pour a little oil down the tube and it dripped oil onto the shaft and valve gear. It all stays in place under the valve cover quite neatly.

There is a thing called an oil accumulator. I read about it in Fred Sissons book. I think it’s basically a small tank for oil that gets pressurized during operation. Then before you cold start you release the pressurized oil back to the engine.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/categories/accusump-oil-accumulator.html

Sounds like it will do what you want, but I’m not sure you need it - research them, many question the value of it all. Cool concept, though.


-N

‘66 plus 4

Thanks for all the useful advice. I seem to remember that - in the days when big end/main bearing failure was commonplace (I go back a long way ) - some swore by oil additives to enhance retention on bearing surfaces. I see Wynns is still going, but I seem to recall something containing Molybdenum Disulphide but can't remember the brand name (not MolySlip - that's still going - but for other purposes).

When I began my motor trade career back in the late 60's, main bearing rumble, big end knock, diff whine and dodgy sychros were par for the course. So modern lubricants and improved materials have made an enormous difference. In the age of electric propulsion, presumably, most of that will be consigned to the history books. Wonder what tell-tale signs we'll need to look/listen out for in future? A nasty burning smell? The characteristic tang of ozone? Glad I'm beyond worrying about such things