Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing +4 brake disc removal

Can anyone tell me how to remove the front brake discs on a +4. I want to remove and refurbish or replace my front discs but am not sure how to remove them. Does the hub need removed and if so how.

May be this would help:

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/559373/Searchpage/4/Main/35523/Words/%2BBrake+%2Bdisc/Search/true/workshop-note-s1-roadster-mulfab-brake-upgrade#Post559373

Greets René

From memory the sequence is:

• Jack up car
• Remove road wheel
• Remove brake caliper, hang it out of the way so the lines aren't under stress. The caliper bolts may be lockwired, mine are.
• Remove split pin from castellated nut I break off the bent ends and use a pair of long-nosed pliers to wind the pin out
• Undo castellated nut, withdraw hub and disc
• Undo the 4 bolts holding the disc to the carrier on the hub
• Tap the disc free with a rubber/hide/wooden mallet

But don't blame me if there's something I've forgotten

Hi g2gsoon.

This parts book image should help.



The brake caliper would need to be unbolted from the stub axle and tied out of the way so as not to strain brake hose. Straightforward disassembly after removing hub nut to allow hubs to be slid off and so gain access to remove disc nuts and bolts from same. After cleaning all parts re-fitting discs and re-greasing bearings, re-assemble with castellated hub nut adjusted to put no pre-load on bearings and no play either before inserting split pin.

Once you have removed the calipers, you could probably take the disc off the hub in situ.

Then again might be worth pulling the hubs just to have a check on the wheel bearings.

Also budget on new bolts and nuts to secure the disc to hub. Depending on your year of manufacture, the factory bolted everything together then clouted the end of the bolt over to stop the nut coming off! A disgusting practice!

In terms of reconditioning, assuming you have plain (I.e) non vented discs, I think minimum/replacement thickness us about 8mm. However you don't say what year/model you have so I can't be definite!

Arwyn

Arwyn, the disc comes off the back of the hub, it can’t be removed without removing the hub from the stub axle

With regards to disc thickness, depending on the cars vintage it will either be fitted with 3/8” or 1/2” thick discs (9.35mm or 12.7mm), maximum wear limit is 40thou or 1mm less than these values

You will always need to replace the disc to hub bolts as the lead thread is peened over by the factory to lock them in place. The peening destroys the thread as they are removed

Also be prepared for the disc to be stuck on the hub. Possible on older cars. Soak the area where the hub meets the disc with release fluid. Leave it to do its job. Try pulling the disc off but you may need more rust release fluid, a bench press would make this easier but careful drifting should do it. Keep the hub bearing areas sealed off.
Two years ago I upgraded with new solid discs and Mulfab callipers with braided pipes. The old discs were QUITE tight so used careful drifting to ease them apart. Hubs off and soaked the mating joints overnight on the bench. I put a VERY small smear of copper grease on the hub/calliper mating surfaces before bolting back on. Clean everything thoroughly before refitting callipers.

Thanks guys. I now have the confidence to tackle the job. Mine is a 1999 car and the threads on the disc to hub bolts are well and truly peened so I will angle grind the ends of the bolts to remove the peened material and replace, possibly with stainless nuts and bolts (peened of course).

I am not sure I would use stainless in that application. Better to stick with the high tensile bolts as original. Someone who knows more than me about metal will be along in a moment I suspect but I was under the impression that stainless fastenings are not as strong,

g2gsoon ..... I wouldn't use stainless for a safety critical part .... it's banned from suspension areas etc for racing ..... of course this might just be a personal bee in my bonnet, in which case no doubt someone will correct me.


K

Paul F ...... snap .... our posts crossed in the ether