Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing One Shot Oiler Removal

Here is the effect of the oiler ...oh and resultant non effective brakes...you will notice im removing the kingpin which is worn too...going for hard chromes...torsion bearings and lower gator to help prevent grit getting in...should last a lifetime then..

DSC_0310 (1) by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr

DSC_0302 by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr

Really Rob?

That looks very much like grease contamination to me.

If it is oil contamination then the solution is pretty simple.....don't use it so much then and when you do, just enough to see the oil pressure guage begin to drop and no more.

I grease once a year and use the oiler maybe every 500-600 miles with a hot engine and get 40K from a set of king pins and bushes

Arwyn

Used as directed in the Owners Handbook they work well and it keeps the car original

My Classic car friends love it and wish they had such a device

I have never used the One Shot Oiler just greased the proper way, have over 68,000 miles on the original set of King Pins on the +8 (still no movement). on the 4/4 I have 40,000 miles on the second set of King Pins replaced at 80,000.

Have just booked my 4/4 in with Tim Ayres to have my system removed

its oil from the oiler..the oiler switch button under the bonnet didnt fully seal in off position so always oil going down at a trickle...Ive never used the oiler...

Yuk! great oportunity to clean it all up Rob. When we chatted I was going to mention about supporting brake calipers when stripping down the front but see you have removed them. If you whip off the hubs you have a great opportunity to paint protect the stub axles before re-assembly.

When I viewed my car in build as it was entering the trim shop, I noticed these already had surface rust. Queried this and was assured they get painted. This translated as a smattering of underseal in one or two places

Dear All,

I am looking to remove the remote oiler from my 1993 +4 Four Seater (Rover T16) - My plan was to screw the sender unit for the oil pressure gauge directly into the engine block above the oil filter - Remove all the pipes and add grease nipples to the tops of the shocks.

But there is a lump of engine block in the way and I will need a coupling to give it more clearance.

My issue is I don't know the thread or sizing of either the Sender unit or the engine block? or where to get a suitable coupling?

It looks a simple job once I have the correct fittings? All help gratefully received!

Regards

Ben Watts

Ben on my 1997 T16 +4 a prior owner had removed the oiling pipes. He/ she did it by removing the pipes at the button on the bulk head & blanking that. I guess so then the pressure gauge would continue to work.

I guess is none on here knows then Rimmer Bros could help.

Thanks John that could work - any idea of the size of the thread on the blanking plugs.

Also the plastic pipe looks to be leaking slightly - so really needs replacing - this is the one from the engine block to the coupling on the bulk head - idealy would change for something stronger - any ideas? I cannot seem to find any part numbers or anything?