Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Crank Pulley Oil Seal

S&S tell us to use so much loctite that we could probably get away with doing it up finger tight!

Certainly be fun getting it apart again, blow torch required me thinks!

Thanks Rog, I'll give it a go this afternoon.

When you are using the kit with the dowel pins to properly locate the cam position don’t rely on those alone, the belt can slip a notch, had it happen because I didn’t have it in gear. I thought i had put it in gear with the e brKe on but I forgot and it slipped a cog or two when I was torquing it in place. PITA.

All sorted.

I left the dowel pins in and slowly torqued up to 60lbft. I thought it was going to bend the pins but didn't.

Afterwords I turned the engine over a few revolutions with the crank pulley nut (no spark plugs or battery in), to see if it all still lined up.

Mine wet sumped during lockdown last year and leaked oil, seemingly, from the rear crank oil seal. I'm struggling to get underneath it to confirm but the Factory tell me that it won't self heal and it's an engine out job to replace. Anyone had any similar experience?

The rear crank oil seal actually seals on a spigot extending from the Centa outer. There are two potential problems, there are often marks on this spigot from the chuck when the assembly was machined, and its diameter is 50mm whereas the seal is for a 2 inch shaft (50.8mm). The way to fix this is obviously a new seal and install a Speedy sleeve on the spigot. Speedy sleeves are used to repair damaged shafts and will also increase the diameter slightly, although not up to 2 inches.

Phil Bleazey fitted a 2" sleeve to a 50mm splined adapter which was having its centa upgrade done. Might be worth having a word with him

Quick update on the new oil seal.

Had the engine up to temp a few times and drove it up and down the drive ( not taxed as yet) so no road test, not a drop of oil has come out so it look like it is sorted.

An added bonus was on initial starting it always to 3 or 4 revolutions to fire up but not this time less than 1 revolution it fired up perfectly. I just wonder if the old cam belt was 1 tooth out so the timing was not spot on.

Who knows.....

Did you have any problems removing the old seal in situ? How did you do it in the end? I don't think your engine would have run as well as it did if a cam was a tooth out, I have followed you 😉.