Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Waterpump woes

Bit of a spoiler to a Saturday morning !

That calls for a self centring & left handed bit.

Or get the pump off and there might be enough thread protruding to get a strong Mole Grip on the stub

Plenty of Plus Gas first

It's worked for me before in other areas.

I think it will need heat, the threads sit in the water jacket which is why they recommend a thread sealant when fitting.

Lots of patience!!!

Great tips, thanks, and I'd be on them if I was in a garage/workshop. My own and site limitations lead me to the capable services of a local engineers.
I think I'll put it back together and gingerly make my way the 3.5 miles to their workshop, just in case it needs extra heat/welding on nuts/or any other sorcery! If it's straightforward, it won't take them long, and if it's complex they'll have the resources to work round issues.

Watched this vid a while back, given the problem I thought there might be interest in it..?

https://youtu.be/dJfkCj3FWBs

Easy as pie that one

Water pump off and weld a nut on the remains of the bolt.

The heat will break the bond between water jacket and bolt and the hex will allow you to unscrew the bolt

Arwyn

Thanks Arwyn, I'll definitely be practising this method once I've a workshop setup, and bought welder/learnt to weld. In the meantime with a couple of boltheads also beginning to round, I'll get it down to Maynards next week where hopefully they'll have every trick in the book. Fingers crossed the weather keeps up!

Been there done that Arwyn... (-: Though it sure was not a stress free operation, in that the car in question was a Porsche 928 belonging to a pal and from a dull memory the water pump had fourteen fixings of which at least six had sheared on removal despite lots of coaxing and words to the gods applied after the first one sheared. Fortunately once the pump was finally removed there were a few threads protruding on each of the broken studs on to which I mig welded nuts, having wire brushed the exposed threads to assist screwing the nuts in place, the mig welding to lock the nuts in place on the broken studs. THAT was the easy part.

The application of heat was where the potential for engine block disaster lay in wait.... Aluminium disperses heat quickly, thus a searing flame directed to the area into which the stud was trapped and used very gingerly was thought to be the best method, but not without risk. Heating aluminium rapidly is not without risk of it melting without warning, no warning given no change of colour, just malts suddenly, and not the sort of thing one wishes to see happen to a multi-thousand pound Porsche engine block.

The studs were six mil in dia so not a lot of force required to shear them again, thus the best method was thought to be to apply as much force as thought reasonable to avoid shearing and keep that force applied while heating the aluminium until the stud moved at which time the flame was quickly withdrawn until the stud would then again seize, then the flame was re-applied untill the stud would again free of to some extent.... It took a great deal of time and nervous perspiration to remove those corroded studs, I ever thought it a risky processes, however it all came good and the car still runs today many years later... Phew..!

Treesurveyor, good luck with the trip to the garage and repairs.