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#707014 16/06/21 08:23 AM
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I need to remove the silencers & I'm struggling to separate the joint forward of the silencer. I took them off at 2 years old to drill the baffles & it was not very hard. Since then its been back to MMC for new chassis & 4 years on they dont want to come off, I have only managed to move RH one back about 3mm. I tried penetrating oil AC90. I'm thinking of applying heat from a hot air paint stripper to the joint with a wet rag wrapped round the pipe just forward of the joint. If that is not hot enough will use of a blow lamp leave the pipes blued?

Last edited by TimG; 16/06/21 08:27 AM.
TimG #707020 16/06/21 10:01 AM
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Have you tried a strap type oil filter remover tool to get extra turning force, as you wriggle it out ?
I find getting it turning is the first sign it will withdraw

Last edited by nippymog; 16/06/21 10:02 AM.
TimG #707042 16/06/21 02:14 PM
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I dont have a filter strap, a large screwdriver does that job.

TimG #707047 16/06/21 02:55 PM
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I used a pair of strap wrenches, and slowly worked them off. There were a few minutes I thought they would not budge, but I saw slow movement and they eventually came. But mine had only been on a year…


2020 M3W
TimG #707055 16/06/21 05:02 PM
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"Twist and shout". You want to avoid too much pulling straight back as you don't want to damage the headpipe or flex coupling. As noted above, twisting, and perhaps some spray lube, is your friend.

Upon re-assembly, a light smear of anti-seize can help the next dis-assembly. Bear in mind if you overdue it, the excess anti-seize will liquify and run out of the joint the first time the exhaust gets hot, so go sparingly. Messy, but no harm done.

Last edited by Bitsobrits; 16/06/21 05:02 PM.

Steve
Late 2012 M3W




TimG #707070 16/06/21 08:09 PM
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I spray penetrating lube into the joint and leave for a couple of days before removing seems to work as I've not had any issues, I too use anti-seize when reassembling.


Bruce
1964 4/4 Series V Comp (Megan)
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TimG #707080 17/06/21 05:31 AM
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I have had this problem when I took the engine out, like yours just on one side. I ended up opening the joint at the slots, then using the heat cool method with a blow lamp and eventually had to resort to a brass drift and big hammer.

When it went back on I used Neversieze on the joint to stop it happening again.

TimG #707082 17/06/21 05:51 AM
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Ah - same problems I had a year ago. I too hammered and chiselled away, and sprayed copious WD40 into the joint, for 2 or 3 days …
Dispairing in the end I bought 2 rubber strap wrenches (1 for the exhaust the other to counter the torque on the front section) to twist them loose. Each side then was off in 10 - 15 minutes! Naturally make sure the WD40 doesn’t get under the rubber strap.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-598531-Rubber-Wrenches-2-Piece/dp/B000O51BWW/

I now have 2 old surplus exhausts, 1 with a conical end where I had been chiselling it!


M3W5sp 2015, MSCC, MTWC, Oxon UK
TimG #707085 17/06/21 06:51 AM
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I need to get a pair of strap wrenches.

TimG #707097 17/06/21 09:44 AM
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Or you could try a metal bar bolted to a U bolt, one each side of the join if there's room to get in


DaveW
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