Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Which Redline gear oil?

So the updated parts list recommends "Redline Heavy Shockproof 75W/140 (75W/250)"

I am a bit confused. Is it the heavy shockproof" or the "75W/140?" Are they the same thing? Here....this one:

https://www.redlineoil.com/heavy-shockproof

or this one:

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w140-gl-5-gear-oil

the specs are not the same, and it's not clear if the parts list endorses "LS" (limited slip") additives, or should. Sorry if this is redundant thread or answered in the dark backward and absym of time.

Have used heavy shockproof, currently using their 80-250. Both work

Which is best at reducing noise? and/or saving the life of the bevel box, you think, Lance?

I like the heavier oil. The heavy duty shockproof is good. The 80-250 was develop in part for the bevel box and even claims it helps quiet the box. I am currently using 80-250 but see little if any difference from heavy shockproof. Neither is going to do much for a really noisy bevel box.

It's the 75W/250 Redline Shockproof oil that seems to work well in the Bevel Box. It was originally listed as "75W/140 (75W/250)" but now seems to be just the 75W/250 description. A few of us tried the 80W/250 GL-5 gear oil and found it wasn't as good as the Shockproof for a quieter BB, although it actually mentions that it reduces M3W BB noise in the details. I will remove the 75W/140 at the next Alternative Part List update, thanks for the question.

Thanks, Ian. Okay, I will give this a try. I have an LS 75/140 gear oil in there now. But still getting pretty dark gunky oil out when I change. I consider the car in a "flushing phase" still. Will start using this redline shockproof until someone discovers something more magical. I swapped out all the worm clamps with the injection clamps you recommended. The urban fan kit and oil cooling kit s going on next week.

If you are getting "dark gunky oil" out of the Bevel Box it may be related to an additive that Morgan tried for a short time in the early days of the M3W. Unfortunately it wasn't a success as it tended to solidify the lubricant! Those that had it flushed it out with diesel fuel or paraffin before refilling with something better. It may be worth trying a flushing fluid like diesel to get the dark stuff out fully. Good to hear the fuel hose clamps are all done. The Urban Cooling kit will help keep the engine temperature more stable. No need for oil coolers here, just keep an eye on the temperature but it never gets too hot with the Urban Cooling kit fitted.

I was told by the dealer I bought the car from that it never had that original additive in the bevel box, but since it's a 2012 (originally sold in a FL dealer and then re-sold as used at a dealer form another state), how would the second dealer know? Anyway, better safe than sorry. I may flush with diesel before replacing new gear oil.
Putting both the urban fan kit and Morgan Custom oil cooler kit may be overkill; But damn driving these air cooled cars in 90 plus summer whether here in the midwest, I am thinking the few hundred dollar insurance is worth it.

I need to iron out the gas leaks/fuel line problems because once that fan shroud goes one, it's all buried under a lot of plastic.

If I had to choose... I'd go with the urban cooling kit. Having said that, my under the bonnet cooler/fan, keeps the oil temp ~200-210 nearly all the time

I would check the fuel lines for damage and cracking. My dealer replaced mine (I have a 2012 M3W) due to degradation. My car lives in a rural environment and the weather runs on the cooler side. I would also look at the clamps used. Morgan went for fast and dirty installation on the connectors. Genuine fuel line clamps will take care of most airborne fuel in the face!