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tow bar
by G Walker - 24/08/26 06:52 PM
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Joined: Mar 2021
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Today I went out for a short drive, parked up and then 15 minutes later went to move my car, it cranked for a fraction of a second then stopped.
All electrics are out apart from the immobiliser flashing LED, no lights hazard no fuel pump.
I checked the fuses on the scuttle all were ok, but I couldn't see where the other fuse box is located.
Firstly can somebody point me in the direction of the fuse box? I have looked at the handbook which says it's in front of the heater box but I couldn't see anything obvious when I was looking around earlier.
Secondly has anybody had a problem like this before as it was strange that it started to crank then stopped then nothing so why would a fuse blow? I don't know if the fact that I had driven about half a mile up a gravel track prior which did vibrate the car somewhat might have vibrated something loose but if so why not cut out there and then.
The car is sort of secure in the car park of a gliding club and I will be going to it tomorrow.
Cheers
Ian
Last edited by Yanto; 06/09/21 08:23 PM.
Roadster Mk1 Plus Six
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The second fuse box is under the dash in the centre on the S1
There should be a master fuse near the battery. Look under the tool tray. It may be a bad connection.
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: Feb 2016
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The main fuses protecting ignition, fuel pump, fan etc. are on an eight way fuse box with each fed from the main positive battery post (under dash) if that helps.
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
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Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
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Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
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Check the inertia cut out switch located next to the wiper motor, press the round rubber indent firmly 'in'
Jon M
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Check also the starter relay. If it fails then the ECU gets no power. The relays are under the dash top RHS. Mine failed and I thought as the immobiliser light was on that the ECU was at fault not the relay of which I had a spare. You can find more on where they are here
JohnV6 2022 CX Plus Four 2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
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Thanks for the answers. To bring this up to date I went back to the car this morning, the battery was at 9v! It would not jump start even when bypassing the battery, the 80A fuse was ok as were all other fuses.
A friend towed me home where I put the battery on charge, I now have full electrics however the starter refuses to engage, just a rapid chattering noise, so thanks @John V6 that relay will be next port of call and a stuck solenoid. I did notice when I was rooting about the battery that it is dated 2005, so as old as the car and needs replacing!
Last edited by Yanto; 07/09/21 04:34 PM.
Roadster Mk1 Plus Six
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Change the battery. Mine failed at 13 years, in the garage at home.
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Change the battery. Mine failed at 13 years, in the garage at home. Oh yes that will be done ASAP. I need to work out how to remove the battery, the SSL linkages are in the way of removing it vertically so I guess I'll have to drop the whole battery tray downwards
Roadster Mk1 Plus Six
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It should come out via the ali panel on the rear bulkhead behind the seats. Just be sure to ensure the terminals are insulated.
JohnV6 2022 CX Plus Four 2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
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Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
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Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,663 Likes: 489 |
The starter solenoid is chattering because you haven't got enough volts & amps to trigger it properly, your battery is shot !
My S1 didn't have the removable bulkhead panel
Could you unbolt the relevant part of the SSL ? as that's how it's designed to wriggle it into place when being fitted
Jon M
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