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Joined: Aug 2013
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Originally Posted by Alistair
What aspect makes it V-twin? I get semi and fully synthetic and I get 20W50 but I cannot find anything on how it’s Vtwin special formulation?


I think you would have to speak to the marketing department

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Originally Posted by nippymog
Originally Posted by Alistair
What aspect makes it V-twin? I get semi and fully synthetic and I get 20W50 but I cannot find anything on how it’s Vtwin special formulation?


I think you would have to speak to the marketing department


Agree, just means they can charge a bit more for it.

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The oils I've used in the X Wedge are Morris Race 20w50, Motul 7100 20w50, Valvolene VR1 20w50, Amsoil V Twin 20w50, and the oil I am currently using is Fuchs Titan Race Pro R 20W-50 Ester Fully Synthetic which is a top quality oil for not too extreme a price.
Unless you send oil samples away for testing and strip the engine down and measure and inspect everything how do you know what's going on with each oil.
The only thing I can say is that the mineral and synthetic oil wet sump to the same degree and that the mineral oils appear to not flow so well at cold temperatures.
Personally I think the problems with the engine come with how well S@S have manufactured it in the first place with some variable tolerances and material quality rather than the oil used.

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Originally Posted by Alistair
What aspect makes it V-twin? I get semi and fully synthetic and I get 20W50 but I cannot find anything on how it’s Vtwin special formulation?


In theory, "v twin" oil is formulated for air cooled motorcycle engines which tend so see brief high temperature spikes due to low speed running or sitting still when running. No cooling fan for low speeds like an air-cooled Porsche, and all that. "V twin" as others have noted really doesn't mean much in itself as there really isn't anything special about V twin oiling requirements, unless they are air cooled. If you have a motor cycle shop nearby buy a good air cooled spec oil there. Most air cooled spec oils are synthetic these days, no doubt due to their greater stability under temperature extremes, but in the end, any high quality oil will do. Just change it frequently (2-3k miles) and you'll have no issues.


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I heard that a "V-Twin" oil has a higher ZDDP Zinc anti wear additive than a "normal" oil. Not sure if this is correct or even relevant? ZDDP has been reduced or replaced with alternatives in many "modern" oils as it doesn't go that well with catalytic convertors the information says. The oil doesn't generally get that hot (in the UK at least) with it peaking at about 115c on a hot day stuck in traffic, all oils should manage that.

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+1


Bruce
1964 4/4 Series V Comp (Megan)
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The roller tappets in the M3W mitigate the need for high zinc (ZDDP) oil, and the effective life of the exhaust cats is diminished with high zinc oils, if that's a concern.


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Originally Posted by Bitsobrits
The roller tappets in the M3W mitigate the need for high zinc (ZDDP) oil, and the effective life of the exhaust cats is diminished with high zinc oils, if that's a concern.

I would not worry about the life of the cats. At 7 years & around 16K miles my R/H exhaust was rattling. I took it off & the cat fell out. I removed the LH & knocked the cat out. In UK there is no emission test at MOT & mine has been tested since & passed so any noise increase not a concern.

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Originally Posted by TimG
In UK there is no emission test at MOT.
Does anyone have access to the relevant document that proves this is the case? My local MOT guy always puts a probe up the exhaust, presumably to measure emissions, and sometimes we struggle to get it within limits. I've had to take it for a good blast to get everything really hot in the past before it would pass. It may save a bit of time if I can show him that it's not necessary.


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Found this on a government website but can't remember where, printed it off to show the MOT tester if needed.
[Linked Image][Linked Image]

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