Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Stoooooopid question, I know….

Belle is plugged into a Ctek (via socket attached direct to battery) during winter. Still take her out one a week/fortnight at least, but…..
Is it safe to start her to get engine ticking over (til warmed up) whilst still connected to Ctek, without causing any damage, electrical or otherwise? Or should I continue to disconnect her?
And before anyone says anything, yes I realise that without a v v v long extension lead I am best avoiding engaging gears to drive anywhere…..
Many thanks for any thoughts that may assist a simpleton
Happy New Year to all
HB

I always disconnect from the CTEK before start up.

I too disconnect. I am worried about spikes in the power supply.

As above, disconnect before starting the engine. No idea if damage can occur so play safe. Switch off at mains then disconnect from the permanent battery lead.

When I‘m right about the manual of my charger it told me to disconnect.

But why you‘ll start the MOG? A short run will cause some condense and that‘s no good idea. Also if let run it until the fan starts to work
only the water will warm up to 100C. Not the full engineblock. And just the 100C for a short time isn‘t enough to protect against a condensation. In my eyes.

My vehicles I let sleep for their hibernation and they start without any problems. The MOG is in hibernation about her registration from December until February and is so early on the road as possible, my HARLEY was this year out for about 70-100KM and was asleep for
nine month - she struggles a little. She awake a the second „press the bottom“ ;-).

Greets René

1. There’s no such thing as a stupid question.
2. I agree with René above - don’t start it unless going for a good run.
3. Disconnect before starting.
Regards
Simon

I have a CTEK unit and it has a quick release plug, so the wires to the terminal/chassis can be left connected permanently. I have made a hole in the battery access plate (with a rubber grommet installed) so there is no pfaffing around when I want to drive the car.

I know it's been said above but why would you want to cause unnecessary wear and tear on an engine by starting it from cold then leaving it without load, prolonging the warming up process. It doesn't make sense

The oil on internal engine surfaces does not suddenly dissapear (if that's the concern). Maybe acceptable to turn an engine over once a year with plugs out if in a damp museum but no more often.

Leaving a charger on battery whilst starting will likely do no harm but still not good practice.

If I start Belle I drive it to get it hot for the reasons above.

The top and bottom end both need protection, the oil is pretty much all cold and asleep in the sump. The oil pump is normally crankshaft driven and so related to overall RPM on most engines. So low RPM means low pump speed.

At cold idle the engine has some problems in this respect.

Low idle speed on most engines means low oil pump pressure so it is not quick to get around the entire engine
If the engine has been off for some time then the oil will have mostly drained out to the sump and cooled
No load at all during idle means it will take take some time to heat the oil to get it in best viscosity taking longer to become effective
With an even speed and no oil there may build up a wear point on older engines at a consistent point, this is mostly gone now
If cold the oil will not be fully viscous and so need some extra time to reach all corners (fully synth 0-40 was his fav)

I was told by a great engine builder to do the following.
1. Start and let idle for a moment to see it is smooth (it is smooth?)
2. Drive off with only smaller throttle opening for 5 miles (get some oil around it)
3. After 5 miles allow it to rev gradually with small throttle openings but up to 3-4000 on light throttle (get oil all over it)
4. After 20 miles you should be free to go.

This was said mainly for race engines with high compressions and slippery bits however it rang true for most piston engines when I considered it.

If the engine has not been run for a long time then run it on the starter without the fuel pump/electronics operational so the oil has a little head start if possible.

Yes modern oils are pretty amazing and should leave a thin film but the first scrape of a valve cam should fix that!
Yes a broader viscosity range can improve the situation but the warranty is dependant on having the correct oil and a modern engine wil not leave change from £10-30k if it pops.
Yes the manufacturer will vary the oil from market to market so ask your LOCAL dealer! Not an internet forum so getting an answer from Brazil for your car in Norway?

On the AMG I have an oil temperature gauge. I always use it for the first part of the journey. The 5.5L V8 is a huge lump with loads of oil and so needs long warming periods in winter. It always amazes me how long the gap is until it is above 70-80 deg in the morning. I can be out of Whitchurch and 20 miles North on the A34 on a light throttle before I am 70+. During that time I do little more than rest my foot on the throttle. Mind you with that engine that is plenty for most situations.