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Joined: Nov 2018
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TBM Offline
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Originally Posted by Leroy
Originally Posted by TBM
Originally Posted by Leroy
Fitted one side of the system, as took longer than I expected. Having a damper blade really made fitting the lower one really tricky.


What was the problem (I have blades so forewarned is forearmed!)


When screwing in the lower swivel joint in place the nipple, when fully screwed, the top of the joint rubs against the bronze plate. Also very tedious trying to tighten the fitting with an open ended spanner. I had to inch it around a few mm at a time I installed it as seen in Craig jazz's photo as if it pointed upwards, then when the wheel turns, it would rub against the bronze plate as well.


Thank you, will keep an eye on that.


1972 4/4 4 seater, 1981 MGB GT
1984 Harley Davidson Electra Glide, 1990 Kawasaki ZX10
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 502
Leroy Offline OP
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I hope, one day soon to have a clean suspension like Craig jezz. So till that time comes, can someone describe exactly where the grease appears from each nipple please?


2004 Series 1 Roadster
Joined: Jul 2007
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Online Content
Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 26,758
Likes: 424
Look here


JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
2025 MG ZS EV aka Trigger
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 502
Leroy Offline OP
Talk Morgan Regular
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Posts: 502
[Linked Image]

Here is the nearside fitted along with a newly purchased sifab break reaction stay (very simple to fit).
Would have fitted the other side today, but have been glueing one of the radiator brackets back onto the rad as it had become detached. Time will tell if it holds up. Used plastic padding super steel.


2004 Series 1 Roadster
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 501
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R
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R
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Originally Posted by Leroy
Originally Posted by TBM
Originally Posted by Leroy
Fitted one side of the system, as took longer than I expected. Having a damper blade really made fitting the lower one really tricky.


What was the problem (I have blades so forewarned is forearmed!)


When screwing in the lower swivel joint in place the nipple, when fully screwed, the top of the joint rubs against the bronze plate. Also very tedious trying to tighten the fitting with an open ended spanner. I had to inch it around a few mm at a time I installed it as seen in Craig jazz's photo as if it pointed upwards, then when the wheel turns, it would rub against the bronze plate as well.

Supposedly I am the one who has had the swivel joint the longest time, and I have no issues. Mine are pointing upwards, I found it the best way - but vertical might be just as good. Sure there is contact between metal surfaces at full lock and even a little bit of rubbing. But there is a little movement in the joint itself, and that absorbs most of the rubbing so there is no pressure exerted on the "elbow". I examined all of it very closely when I fitted it, full lock both ways. And I still examin it from time to time, to see if there is any chafing or damage. It has been a couple of years now, all is ok. I was reasonably careful when I adjusted the length of the tubing, though - making sure the swivel did not swing too much back and forth with the steering - just enough.
I also covered the tubing with a braided nylon "stocking", to protect it a little and also as tell-tale of possible chafing along the tube. You guys might know it already, but if you want to shorten or change the tube after fitting, you take a miniature spanner or a small plier and press the golden collar into the fitting, then just pull the tube out - shorten and push it back again.


Robbie the Norseman
2004 V6 Roadster
Sherwood green
Joined: Nov 2016
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New to Talk Morgan
Joined: Nov 2016
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Just been to see Cain today and pick up a remote greasing kit. My reason for getting it is arthritis


Richard
1998 Plus 4 T16 and a few others old and new.
Joined: Jul 2007
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Good choice. It works really well


JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
2025 MG ZS EV aka Trigger
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,285
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S
Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
S
Joined: May 2010
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Leroy, I had similar on my car. An MMC aluminium rad. The top bracket welded to the tank was peeling away. No leaks just weld failure.The reason was poor alignment of the fixing point on the cross bar, it was putting lateral strain on the bracket. I used JB Weld initially but that failed despite me adjusting the alignment. I eventually put a separate steadying bracket over the top of the tank, formed to match the tank profile with a padding to reduce/prevent rubbing wear. Did the job about 6/7 years ago and no problems. The rad was a replacement put on by a previous owner. Not well done as the mis alignment was a basic error. It was done at a dealer too so no excuses. My fix was making the bolt hole oval to line up better but the extra bracket would be fine on its own.


Plus Four MY23 Furka Rouge
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