Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Rusty brake drums

The rear exterior drums on my 4/4 sport (2010) are covered in a thin layer of rust and look rather unsightly. I would like to paint them to match the body(dark green) - probably using caliper paint which should take the heat. However after brushing off the loose rust I would like to deal with the rust with a rust treatment before painting.
Can anyone offer suggestions - what rust-treatment to use and will it stand the heat as well as take a coat or two of paint on top.
I know there will be a sage out there with a solution.
Thanks in advance.

I've used a couple of rust treating solutions. One was a rust remover, the other a rust converter. For. Me, if its only surface, I'd sand it back and treat with rust remover, then paint. If thicker, rust converter to make it a solid and sound "thing" then paint. I've got some jenolite rust converter and rustins rust remover. Both seem to work as intended.

I think in cause of the „mainconstruction“ there is rust and there would be rust again.

In my eyes a change to something like „minifins“ would be an idea. May be overdone.

Greets René

I did mine 5 years ago. Cleaned them, light sanding to smooth, then sprayed with High temperature paint from an aerosol. I used Kurust before spraying. I masked off the area round the studs and wheel contact in the centre as I didn’t want that area painted.
The paint is from either Halfords or Frost ( can’t remember which).

I painted my brake drums virtually from new with a couple of coats of Hammerite and after 3.5 years and nearly 20,000 miles of year round use they are still fine as the drums don't get that hot. Ditto my Land Rover one's which were treated many years ago. If there was surface rust would treat first with Kurust.

Just treated the diff casing similarly which comes with the thinnest of paint coatings from new.

When my car was subject to a nut and bolt restoration it looks like Kevin sprayed the whole axle including brake drums with black two pack black lacquer, and as Richard typed above they still look unmarked after circa 20k miles or more, and over a period of 20 years..?

If using a Hammerite product, then it might be more suitable to use one of the colours in the Smoothrite range, as the hammered finish can have issues in terms of appearance and coverage...? I have used Smoothrite with success on engine blocks and suspension components of my sports cars over the years with a degree of success.

Good luck in your choices..

I use AVI FER paint (available from French supermarkets) on brake drums & suspension components (and any metal outdoor equipment). This takes a long time to dry fully (weeks), but has proved very tough.

Previously I used machinery/tractor enamel, but the quality dropped about 5 years ago. My experience is that Smoothrite chipped easily.

Looking forward to when we will be allowed back into France to restock!

When I rebuilt the brakes seven years ago and had the drums off I rubbed them down and sprayed them with a VHT (exhaust) Matt Black rattle can and they still look good.

I have painted mine up with POR 15 Engine Enamel paint that seems so far to do the trick!
Brought the paint from Frost.

I use satin black standard aerosol, and it never seems to budge. I don't think the rears generate much heat.