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RobFog Offline OP
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I have to replace my rear wheel cylinders - the fun never stops with a Morgan does it smile

I've found this thread that discusses the steps but before I get too far I wanted to ask for help on how to remove the backplates.

From the discussion and diagram it appears that there are 3 plates on the rear and per Guten's comments I need to follow these steps :

"One of the clips has little lugs on the end, before you remove them check where these are so you can get them back the same. Prize the one clip over these as you pull the other one out. Make sure when you replace them the lugs lock over. The clips are bent to form a spring, take note which way they are as you take them off."

Before I get too far I was hoping that somebody could confirm that for the first plate, the retaining plate, I can just prize off with a flathead screw driver.

I've seen articles confirming that with 1993+ models you can replace the cylinder without removing the brake shoes - I also wanted to confirm that this is the case with earlier models before I get in too much trouble.


Thank you !

Last edited by DaiBach; 01/03/22 04:36 AM.

1974 4/4 2 seater
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RobFog Offline OP
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I 'think' I've found a videothat explains the process in detail, albeit in reverse . I this case the brake cylinders are removed - any tips and suggestions are welcome.

Thanks


1974 4/4 2 seater
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Yes, don't forget to lubricate the back plate and wheel cylinder with bit of copper slip prior to installation.

Also, when refitting, fit the middle clip last!

Arwyn

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I found them easier to deal with if I had the backing plate off. Then you can replace the grease seal at the same time. You might as well since you're in there.

And do one at a time, so you can look at the other one and see how it's supposed to go together.


Paul

1973 4/4 "Henry A"
1953 +4 Flat Rad "Pug"
1984 Citoen 2CV Special "BeBe"
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RobFog Offline OP
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Thank you, both - copper slip has been ordered - that's a new one to me.


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There are two Girling special tools that make this job easier, a brake shoe horn and a steady spring compressor, worth looking out for.


Jack
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Talk to minikeefy by PM he bought a tool for the dreaded clips & posted info on TM.
Cain at Wolf Performance sells them http://www.wolfperformance.co.uk/product/rear-brake-cylinder-circlip-tool/


JohnV6
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Originally Posted by John V6
Talk to minikeefy by PM he bought a tool for the dreaded clips & posted info on TM.
Cain at Wolf Performance sells them http://www.wolfperformance.co.uk/product/rear-brake-cylinder-circlip-tool/


These rear wheel cylinders aren't held on by circlips though........

The Lockheed wheel cylinders fitted from the early 90's are retained by circlips.....

Arwyn

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Ah. I'll shut up then hide


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RobFog Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Jack & Jill 602
There are two Girling special tools that make this job easier, a brake shoe horn and a steady spring compressor, worth looking out for.


I've got everything back in place apart from the drum brake holding pins - I just can seem to put the hold down spring and retainer in place , if I turn the hold down washer then the whole pins turns with it. Is this what you were referring to for a steady spring compressor ?

I've looked at youtube videos and it seems straightforward enough, just use a locking plier on the washer, push and turn. My arms feel like I've been lifting weights at this point

Does anyone have any tips, tools, techniques or best practices or do I need to somehow lock the pin from behind the brake to stop it turning when I turn the washer ?

I tried brake spring compressor tool and either it was next to useless or I'm just using it incorrectly.


1974 4/4 2 seater
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