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Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Apr 2021
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OP
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Joined: Apr 2021
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That explains it then Rob... I am assuming the end/nose of the flexy is flat. If that might be the case then you could damage the threads with any material removal if not done carefully. Also you would not wish to get any filings inside the flexy pipe to later find their way on to brake seals, thus the two washer system seems a reasonable bodge..? Yes, thank you for confirming, I'm very reluctant to start filing away, it is a flat end - it's taken me almost 50 feet of brake pipe to get one 4 ft length I'm happy with, so I'm not looking for more rabbit holes to dive down if I can help it :-). Plus the whole concern with fillings ... I'll try the double washer. Thanks for the suggestions - there was a copper washer on there previously so I assumed it would need one for the new fitting - perhaps not. The union and the brake pipes are both new from New England Morgan Spares so I'd be disappointed if this was a compatibility issue. Definitely a significant leak (so probably more than a thread sealant should be used for). Back to the drawing board for now. I did notice that in this diagram on their site there does appear to be a washer - no. 39 but it's not labeled so I'll see if they can shed light on what I should be using here. so there is…we learn something every day. So it’s now an issue as to whether it’s the correct sized washer or… I notice that part 36 looks to be a flexible rubber pipe. Is that what you have or are you trying to mate a solid pipe to the tee piece?? it is a flexible rubber pipe, I'm not trying to make any more solid pipe than I need to - that's been an exercise in patience and fortitude ! Sospan, thanks for the link. I'm going to be back in the UK next month - time to figure out what i need to stock up on in terms of car parts . The list of people willing to get in to the car with me is definitely in single figures at this point  . Ok, off to break something else ...
Last edited by RobFog; 17/05/22 07:40 PM.
1974 4/4 2 seater
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Joined: Apr 2021
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Just in case somebody finds themselves in a similar position - I'm not sure why the new union didn't work - I tried 2 washers without success and the brake pipe worked find with the original union - I've found what I think are the original unions on eBay - may be worth considering stocking up on one.... Of course, my brake pipes now have to be replaced - but I'm getting pretty adept at that now - so, progress and experience, by some definition
Last edited by RobFog; 18/05/22 05:00 PM.
1974 4/4 2 seater
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 287 Likes: 8
Learner Plates Off!
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Learner Plates Off!
Joined: Feb 2013
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Just a thought about your story, you're not mixing BSF or NF with Metric fittings are you ? because that could give you sealing issues
Owen
"bilibib"
1982 4/4 Twin Cam, Royal Ivory
1932 Super Sports, Duo tone(two tone)Green
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Joined: Mar 2010
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Moderate or good, occasionally poor Talk Morgan Addict
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Moderate or good, occasionally poor Talk Morgan Addict
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,696 Likes: 131 |
Remember that you are attempting to seal 4 joints / 8 surfaces. If you add an extra washer on each side you've increased this to 6 joints and 12 surfaces, which may also increase the problem by a similar factor! Far better to get the correct sizes of everything, IMHO.
I have been having an ongoing problem with fuel leakage on the carburettor banjo connection on my Austin 7. After many attempts at different solutions (copper, aluminium, fibre and Dowty washers), a car mechanic discovered a hairline crack in the inlet of the Zenith carburettor. I need to get this welded but at the same time, I'm strongly considering having a barb hose tail inserted so I can just clamp on a conventional fuel line and lose the wretched T connector altogether! Anyway, it might be worth double-checking where the leakage is coming from in case you have a similar issue.
2011 Morgan 4/4
1932 Austin 7 Chummy
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Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: May 2010
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Thinking back on the causes for leaks......
Brake pipes are flared and the flared part is designed to mate against the matched fitting.
Years ago I had a smell of diesel on a car and it was cured by releasing and refitting the fuel pipe inlet so the mating surfaces reseated correctly.
My guess is that your car has issues with the mating of the pipes to t-piece. Matching up correct threads is a possible cause as it can prevent proper mating contact. So....check that, check the condition of pipe flares and t-piece. As the pipe connector is not removable due to the flared pipe check that to get a matched t-piece.
I upgraded my front callipers and the brake lines used banjo fittings to connect. These used copper crush washers for sealing as no flared pipes.
Plus Four MY23 Furka Rouge
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Charter Member
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Charter Member
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Just come across the old ones I replaced recently in the garage and on mine one end has a chamfer/taper on the end of the threaded part and the other end is flat .... I'm sure you must have tried them all ways round ... but if not, maybe that might make a difference.
K
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OP
L - Learner Plates On
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As always, your comments and suggestions keep me going and trying. Thank you.
My father-in-law came over to help today and we put all the pieces back together (plus the new T union I purchased on eBay) and it seems to have worked this time. Another small step forward.
Lessons learned this time around and probably known as common sense to everyone else :
Be very careful screwing the brake pipes into the union - hand tighten it and make sure it's well aligned.
Use a crush washer on the connection of the rear brake house to the T/Union. The crush washer from Dolmans is 725-013
Copper Washer-1/32 In. x 3/8 In. x 9/16 In.
Bending brake lines is so much easier with cunifer.
The brake line nuts for the rear lines are P10-3 - 3/8" x 24 unf male steel nut with non-threaded lead
Hope this all helps somebody one day.
1974 4/4 2 seater
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