Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) 2005 Roadster Axle issue

The Mulfab spacers are staggered Rog. I think I still have two on the shelf.

So perhaps a new hole inline then! It might just be a workaround if the body was twisted.

Springs swapped over, that was a solid 8 hours work! I took the opportunity to nip of a little more of the outboard U bolt threads whilst they were off, just to make sure of clearance. It’s righted it; in that there is now no list to the left. A good gap bump stop to axle on both sides. Drives absolutely lovely, took a 16 stone friend out on the test run with me, no apparent issues rides great. Pic taken after run out.
Before

After

While the car was on stands all round, prior to change over. I took measurements from the ground to specific spots around the body of the car either side. There is 10mm difference to the body work along the passenger side, to that of the drivers. Chassis was the level ground to er.. chassis, all round. I put a spirit level across the chassis members, the readings were the same on all the ladders as it were. No apparent cracks, damage, twists etc.. I would have thought 10mm would be within tolerance?
However this has now created another possible issue with the SSL front springs. I now have a 15mm gap on the driver’s side from top of rebound to the stub axle (see pics). If I adjust the spring down I am sure that will drop the rear and surely put too much pressure on the main spring. Conundrum or what.
Passenger side is at 35mm bottom ring to top and Drivers now 55, which is without adding a further 15mm! May need to put the old stuff back on....





Thanks for tolerating me 

Imperative to ride comfort and design function that the SSL RS kit at the front has the static spring situation adjusted for exactly zero pre-load with no gap at top of rebound spring.

The main issue in achieving this is defining the static stub axle position. Damper and stub axle stiction plus lateral tyre movement hinder this which is why SSL instructions suggest fully greasing followed by drop with trolley jack without dampers attached to achieve a bounce. I found a compromise by dropping after full grease and just jacking back up a couple of millimetres when rebound springs should just lock up when twisted. Repeating this several times gives confidence you have a median to correct adjustment.

I certainly wouldn't leave as is just to satisfy rear. Doubt adjusting front would make that much difference TBH.

Uhm, I had cleaned up excess grease, then re-greased until the usual oozing, took dampers off (well detached) trolley dropped etc. she defo bounces when dropped. However with everything else taken into consideration I can’t quite fathom why both sides would be so different, before swapping the springs to opposite sides the space between rings was approx 40mm both sides. That was with the list to the left.
Puzzled yet again.

Abbo, have you checked the front rebound spring with the rear jacked under from the centre of the diff. That will take out any influence from the rear springs or chassis twist.

Do the same to check the rear springs by jacking dead centre of the front cross member.

Try them both and see if the spring heights are the same as when all 4 wheels are on the ground.

ABBO, did you take the opportunity to measure the new leaf springs whilst off the car for deflection ? (I still suspect your springs are not equally tempered)

Looking at the photos, the driver side shows a spring with the gap; i.e. absolutely no preload. Looking at the passenger side, that spring appears to be compressed somewhat compared to the relaxed one. You should be able to just about turn the spring on the king pin by hand, to prove there is no preload. So I would suggest that you adjust the passenger side first to get that condition and then see how it compares with the other side. It may not be as unequal as you first thought. Peter B of SSL maintains that the important thing is to have both compression springs just moveable by hand, no matter how much thread might be showing at the top above the adjuster rings.

Jon, all in all I could only press the OS by 5mm however the NS by 15mm. it was the NS that was sagging however the axle had a gap between the bump stop. As you can see there was 8mm difference of height or curve at rest.
Doug, Bob, Peter has been chatting to me re this and as you say has said to make sure they are just kissing. I’ll get onto the adjusting tonight and lift the rear as suggested. I’ll never get to Yorkshire in her at this rate!

NS Free

NS hand pressure

OS Free

OS hand pressure

Interesting, they both deflect by 5mm under hand test load, but are already 10mm out (NS vs OS) without any load

Hope you get a satisfactory conclusion, but I agree you need to get the front SSL set up equally first, as it does effect the rears too