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Joined: May 2012
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Rog Offline
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Those switches can be a bit short lived..... The repeated arcing across the contacts degrades the switch. As time goes by you need more and more pressure to operate the switch so the brake lights become less responsive. No I don’t think the relay came as standard and yes adding a relay significantly reduces any contact arcing.


Roger
2011 Plus 4
Joined: Aug 2020
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Originally Posted by Rog
Those switches can be a bit short lived..... The repeated arcing across the contacts degrades the switch. As time goes by you need more and more pressure to operate the switch so the brake lights become less responsive. No I don’t think the relay came as standard and yes adding a relay significantly reduces any contact arcing.


Thanks Rog, mystery solved 😁


2004 Series 1 Roadster
Joined: Nov 2015
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Just barreling along
Talk Morgan Guru
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Just barreling along
Talk Morgan Guru
Joined: Nov 2015
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Roadsters of that era left the factory with the old style hydraulic pressure switch, these tended to fail because of the crap quality of switches (not MMC's fault almost all the current makes are rubbish) the longest lasting I've found are Intermotor brand.

Lot's of owners added a simple relay to reduce the load the switch contacts take & this generally works well, but worth carrying a spare hydraulic sw if you're doing long tours, as they can be changed roadside without needing to bleed the brakes if you are confident & don't dawdle with the spanner


Jon M
Joined: Aug 2020
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Originally Posted by CooperMan
Roadsters of that era left the factory with the old style hydraulic pressure switch, these tended to fail because of the crap quality of switches (not MMC's fault almost all the current makes are rubbish) the longest lasting I've found are Intermotor brand.

Lot's of owners added a simple relay to reduce the load the switch contacts take & this generally works well, but worth carrying a spare hydraulic sw if you're doing long tours, as they can be changed roadside without needing to bleed the brakes if you are confident & don't dawdle with the spanner


Mine was replaced a couple of years ago cos the previous owner replaced it with a one that didn't have a tapered thread, and this apparently cracked the union. Guess I'd better get a spare.


2004 Series 1 Roadster
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Fit a relay and a microswitch on the pedal. It's a simple mod and solves the problem.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
Joined: Apr 2012
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J
L - Learner Plates On
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J
Joined: Apr 2012
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For the hydraulic pressure switch I used one of these
https://www.goodridge.co.uk/products/brake-light-switch-metric-single-banjo-bolt
to replace the banjo bolt on the master cylinder. Much neater.
Also used one on the clutch cylinder for the drive safety lockout on startup.

Joined: Feb 2016
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Online NoMood
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Joined: Feb 2016
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Originally Posted by CooperMan
Roadsters of that era left the factory with the old style hydraulic pressure switch, these tended to fail because of the crap quality of switches (not MMC's fault almost all the current makes are rubbish) the longest lasting I've found are Intermotor brand.

Lot's of owners added a simple relay to reduce the load the switch contacts take & this generally works well, but worth carrying a spare hydraulic sw if you're doing long tours, as they can be changed roadside without needing to bleed the brakes if you are confident & don't dawdle with the spanner

Relays have their place but would favour a quality hydraulic or direct pedal operated switch, underrated current wise for the task. The extra wiring and possibly poor location of relay adds complexity and potential unreliability.

Note also having LED brake lights as well as generally being brighter puts far less current load on switch.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
Joined: Aug 2020
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Originally Posted by CooperMan
Roadsters of that era left the factory with the old style hydraulic pressure switch, these tended to fail because of the crap quality of switches (not MMC's fault almost all the current makes are rubbish) the longest lasting I've found are Intermotor brand.

Lot's of owners added a simple relay to reduce the load the switch contacts take & this generally works well, but worth carrying a spare hydraulic sw if you're doing long tours, as they can be changed roadside without needing to bleed the brakes if you are confident & don't dawdle with the spanner

Relays have their place but would favour a quality hydraulic or direct pedal operated switch, underrated current wise for the task. The extra wiring and possibly poor location of relay adds complexity and potential unreliability.

Note also having LED brake lights as well as generally being brighter puts far less current load on switch.

I'm not that confident in wiring in a microswitch. I take it from what you say that there's no reason why I can't just swap my bulbs for led ones?


2004 Series 1 Roadster
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Just ordered 3 replacement led bulbs from classic car leds. Bet they outlast the car 😂


2004 Series 1 Roadster
Joined: Nov 2015
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Just barreling along
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Fit a relay and a microswitch on the pedal. It's a simple mod and solves the problem.

Yes, I went down that route eventually, if you fit a decent plunger switch rated at least 5 amps you don't even need the complexity of a relay thumbs


Jon M
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