Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Fog Light Wiring

Might be easier to relocate the PAT’s LED and stick it in the middle?

And whilst we're blitzing you with ideas Dave here is the ultimate solution from a 2012 Supersport for sale at Allon White.



I'm guessing the dash was an ex-factory 50th annniversary custom layout since I've seen another 2012 Supersport for sale with Williams with exactly the same (also with wonky start switch )

That PCB looks quite exposed to moisture and damp, its only a matter of time poor show from Morgan no attempt of waterproofing.

Agreed, thankfully some time around 2014 it was replaced by a sealed BCU.

Has anyone tried a good coating of Tropicising lacquer on the pcb ?... that should help with moisture, humidity and the odd drip but not full immersion.


K

7 Bar of oil pressure?

Thanks,

Could be a useful thing and double up as a bit of an interior light.😊

That's a helpful photo Rog, thanks

When I looked up from underneath all I could see was the PCB allowing zero access to the back of the gauge panel, I can now see it's mounted to the panel on two studs so perhaps the way to approach this is to undo the nuts and drop it out of the way?

Fitting the switch where the security LED currently resides a nice idea, but of course that would mean finding a new home for the LED.




I did see this Richard and agree it would be the ultimate setup, but it's a lot to change and a great deal of cost when all I am really trying to do here is fit one small illuminated toggle switch.


It's looking likely the answer could be to drop the PCB from its mounting studs to gain better access from beneath, and then fit the illuminated toggle switch here....





Using an amber illuminated toggle switch rather than blue, this one from Durite has a nicer bezel nut too (Durite Part Number: 0-603-10).





It's rated at 10a, but I asume it's only triggering a relay?

I've also gone for this tag.

The PCB is mounted on the back of the four EAO switch assembies. There are little plastic interlocks on the back.




These images are from the tm gallery, courtesy of Jays

Oh jeez Rog, that looks more involved than I thought

I'm now thinking if I want to fit my toggle switch in one of the higher positions, I really need to drop the dash to remove the whole PCB.

However, if I remove the two arrowed nuts that secure the telltale light panel.



It looks like it'll move out of the way on its ribbon cable to allow me to safely fit my fog light switch in the central but lower position indicated by the red star above, and shown below.



The contacts on the back of my fog light switch would need to sit under the ribbon cable, but it looks like there's enough slack in the ribbon and room under it to allow for that? To fit the switch, obviously I'll be drilling into the front face of the panel so I'm super keen not to drill into any delicate electronics, I need to make 100% sure anything vulnerable is safely right out of the way to completely remove all risk of expensive damage.

What do you think of the above approach and this lower proposed position for my amber illuminated Durite toggle switch?



EDIT!

However, looking at this angle it now looks like for my Durite toggle switch to clear the upper edge of the telltale ligh panel I'll need to move it up slightly so it sits between the factory heater fan and temp switches, as shown by the red star.



So it would look like this.



Alternatively these two areas look clear of any obstruction.



So I could conceivably fit two switches like this.



One being the fog light switch on the left, and the second used to turn on the footwell lights I'm planning on installing.



I'm now thinking the twin switch idea is the winner