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Joined: May 2012
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Rog Offline
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Originally Posted by Montegue
Originally Posted by Rog
It’s a homemade bracket with a squirt of black paint. The switch I had floating around spare from another job. A temp fix for now. Funny how things fail just before the MOT crazy2

[Linked Image]

At least it would get those Marchals lit up and then you can think about a longer term plan.


Exactly Rog, I desperately need to see the mystical golden glow of the beautiful Marchals before the big freeze comes and trips to the garage become far less enticing snow

A Princely sum of £3.00 snagged me this, and it comes with a free momentary switch too, for that price it's not even worth getting the tools out thumbs

[Linked Image]


Dave that bracket looks a bit um…. little smile

What about one of these or one of these?


Roger
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This looks complicated…

If you want footwell lights the factory fitted them to 4 seaters from 2006 onwards so the parts are available. They are triggered by opening the door.

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Originally Posted by flyfisher
If you want footwell lights the factory fitted them to 4 seaters from 2006 onwards so the parts are available. They are triggered by opening the door.


WOW!

Door activated courtesy lights, now that's very high tech, can’t see it catching on though laugh2

Rog #762200 21/11/22 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Rog
Originally Posted by Montegue
Originally Posted by Rog
It’s a homemade bracket with a squirt of black paint. The switch I had floating around spare from another job. A temp fix for now. Funny how things fail just before the MOT crazy2

[Linked Image]

At least it would get those Marchals lit up and then you can think about a longer term plan.


Exactly Rog, I desperately need to see the mystical golden glow of the beautiful Marchals before the big freeze comes and trips to the garage become far less enticing snow

A Princely sum of £3.00 snagged me this, and it comes with a free momentary switch too, for that price it's not even worth getting the tools out thumbs

[Linked Image]


Dave that bracket looks a bit um…. little smile

What about one of these or one of these?


I think it'll be fine with a huff of satin black Rog, it's just a little bracket mostly hidden anyway and no different to your first link really, just a pound cheaper.

I already have the Durite illuminated toggle switch and fog light label disc on order, the plan is to place the switch here so the smaller the better as far as I'm concerned.

[Linked Image]

D.

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Originally Posted by Lordofthewings
Originally Posted by Montegue
I'm now thinking if I want to fit my toggle switch in one of the higher positions, I really need to drop the dash to remove the whole PCB.

Don't be afraid of dropping the dash (as in lowering/removing it). Probably been covered elsewhere on TM numerous times, but here's my 10-step guide as to how I do mine on the Roadster (I've done it on my own a couple of times -- having a buddy to assist would be good if your are not a Billy No Mates like me). Removal and re-fitting takes me about 40 mins plus the time taken to do whatever is needed behind the dash:

1. Disconnect the battery (unless you want to risk shorting something and burning-out the dash, the rest of the car, your garage, and your house....);
2. Slide the seats back as far as possible, and open the doors about a foot each side to create room for manoeuvring the dash;
3. Slacken the steering column lock and lower the steering wheel as much as possible (you can remove the wheel if you really want to);
4. Remove the little black screws with captive washers, that secure the tray beneath the dash -- don't lose them, but they are magnetic for when you drop one on the carpet and it disappears under the seat -- use a telescopic magnetic pick-up tool;
5. Drop or remove the tray;
6. Lock or wedge the glovebox lid closed, or carefully use masking tape -- this will stop it from flapping about while you are working;
7. Mask the areas around the heads (for when your screwdriver slips) and remove the three Phillips-head screws that hold the dash in place, starting with the outer ones and leaving the middle one until last (and as above, don't lose the cup washers);
8. The dash will now have almost fallen out, except the steering column cowl will stop it from doing so -- you can remove that too if you wish.

Now do whatever you need to regarding switches etc. While the dash is out, think about attending to these jobs too:
(a) Check for (and remove) the fine dust from the varnish on the dash that has abraded against the top of the cowl.
(b) Tidy-up any loose bits of the wiring loom;
(c) Ensure that all plugs/sockets are mated together properly (clean the contacts with switch cleaner to be sure);
(d) Check that all the wiring to the instruments, switches and warning lights is firmly attached and not corroded;
(e) Check that the heater control knob operates smoothly (and grease if necessary);
(f) Take the opportunity to make sure the nuts on the bolts securing the lower screen mounts are tightened (another potential source of rattles);
(g) Check on the windscreen washer tubes (and at this stage you can also check that the nuts which hold the jets in place are not loose and causing a rattle);
(h) Now is also the time to temporarily loosen the nuts that secure the dials in place, so that you can carefully pry-out the instruments and clean/polish the bezels;
(i) Brush and/or vac out the entire area behind the dash to remove the moths and cobwebs that may have taken-up residence.

9. Repeat steps 1-8 above in reverse, and when complete, polish the dash (with a soft cloth, and I use furniture burnishing cream then car wax);
10 Have a beer with your helper buddy (or just on your own, boo hoo).

And if I've missed anything, other TM'ers will tell you !



Many thanks, actually that doesnt sound too bad, below now seems like the only option for a dash mounted switch and its still unclear to me if the PCB will alow enough room for it?

[Linked Image]

So for now I'm going with a little switch bracket just to the left of the steering wheel, this completrely removes the need to drop the dash only to find there's no room behind the PCB anyway.

Last edited by Montegue; 21/11/22 11:41 AM.
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With this thread getting quite long Dave just a reminder when investigating the fog light wires under the front wings. According to the schematic you should find at base of o/s inner wing two blue/yellow wires each terminating in male bullet connectors. I'm guessing, as never had need to investigate on mine, that they both fit into a double female connector a) to protect them and b) to allow the other to loop through to n/s similar location. If not that's what you will need to provide plus bullets on your fog light wires of course which hopefully are long enough to reach.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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Finally found some time to have a go at hunting for the fabled front auxiliary light wiring.

https://youtu.be/bjCdP_tTLc8

Not the most stimulating video you'll ever watch, but I felt this was the best way to demonstrate what I found, or rather didn't find eek

Unless anyone has any further ideas, I think the solution here is to build my own fused sub loom with relay and forget trying to trace wires that don't appear to be present.

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Everything you found was to be expected Dave conforming to colour code standard. Even the solid green wire tail to indicators each side being same since lamps are generic and it's the main loom wires feeding them that differ.

I get the impression you are close to giving up, however you need to be a little more adventurous I suspect. Cutting a few of the thinner cable ties which are easily replaced, will allow a closer look and I would expect to be looking in the area just aft of wheel upright. I can see several taped sub looms there. You may have to cut away tape carefully with a Stanley knife to reveal cable colours within. Remember you have found the correct wire at the dash end so where else would it go confused2

Note also that your wishbone conversion may have required some non standard loom securing.

That bomb tail (bunched group of wires sharing a common feed) needs attending to. Try soldering them all together if possible or at the very least re-crimp. Clearly the one you found was to share a common ground but they are used extensively on wiring looms so the insulation needs to be in place, as often live WRT ground.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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Rog Offline
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Dave this may show where it might have been. Stuck my phone over the wheel and took this shot blind earlier.
[Linked Image]


Roger
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I wonder Rog if a degree of third party "tidying up" of wiring took place when Dave's car was fitted with wishbone suspension. Still no reason to expect the wires he's looking for are not there though.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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