I'm now thinking if I want to fit my toggle switch in one of the higher positions, I really need to drop the dash to remove the whole PCB.
Don't be afraid of dropping the dash (as in lowering/removing it). Probably been covered elsewhere on TM numerous times, but here's my 10-step guide as to how I do mine on the Roadster (I've done it on my own a couple of times -- having a buddy to assist would be good if your are not a Billy No Mates like me). Removal and re-fitting takes me about 40 mins plus the time taken to do whatever is needed behind the dash:
1. Disconnect the battery (unless you want to risk shorting something and burning-out the dash, the rest of the car, your garage, and your house....);
2. Slide the seats back as far as possible, and open the doors about a foot each side to create room for manoeuvring the dash;
3. Slacken the steering column lock and lower the steering wheel as much as possible (you can remove the wheel if you really want to);
4. Remove the little black screws with captive washers, that secure the tray beneath the dash -- don't lose them, but they are magnetic for when you drop one on the carpet and it disappears under the seat -- use a telescopic magnetic pick-up tool;
5. Drop or remove the tray;
6. Lock or wedge the glovebox lid closed, or carefully use masking tape -- this will stop it from flapping about while you are working;
7. Mask the areas around the heads (for when your screwdriver slips) and remove the three Phillips-head screws that hold the dash in place, starting with the outer ones and leaving the middle one until last (and as above, don't lose the cup washers);
8. The dash will now have almost fallen out, except the steering column cowl will stop it from doing so -- you can remove that too if you wish.
Now do whatever you need to regarding switches etc. While the dash is out, think about attending to these jobs too:
(a) Check for (and remove) the fine dust from the varnish on the dash that has abraded against the top of the cowl.
(b) Tidy-up any loose bits of the wiring loom;
(c) Ensure that all plugs/sockets are mated together properly (clean the contacts with switch cleaner to be sure);
(d) Check that all the wiring to the instruments, switches and warning lights is firmly attached and not corroded;
(e) Check that the heater control knob operates smoothly (and grease if necessary);
(f) Take the opportunity to make sure the nuts on the bolts securing the lower screen mounts are tightened (another potential source of rattles);
(g) Check on the windscreen washer tubes (and at this stage you can also check that the nuts which hold the jets in place are not loose and causing a rattle);
(h) Now is also the time to temporarily loosen the nuts that secure the dials in place, so that you can carefully pry-out the instruments and clean/polish the bezels;
(i) Brush and/or vac out the entire area behind the dash to remove the moths and cobwebs that may have taken-up residence.
9. Repeat steps 1-8 above in reverse, and when complete, polish the dash (with a soft cloth, and I use furniture burnishing cream then car wax);
10 Have a beer with your helper buddy (or just on your own, boo hoo).
And if I've missed anything, other TM'ers will tell you !