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Originally Posted by RichardV6
I note you have a proper ground connection to sender. Many vehicles of that era had OE only the one sender connection, relying on tank to chassis grounding through fixings to complete the circuit.

With the moving iron gauge you almost certainly have a check on the instrument itself is achieved by simply removing the connection to sender. With ignition on the gauge should read instantly beyond full, and similarly with same removed wire touched to tank, the gauge should read below empty. This latter check also proves the aforementioned tank to chassis connectivity.

Thanks Richard. The previous owner rewired the car, including adding the grounding wires where appropriate. When I did the checks before refitting the instrument, the needle disappeared beyond full when I disconnected the sender, but only went to half tank when the feed wire was grounded. Unfortunately it then went to beyond full when I took the wire off the ground, and didn't return. I suspect there is something amiss in the gauge. The pleasures of 50s technology! No getting the laptop out and reblowing the software.


1956 Plus 4 4 seater
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Do whay everyone does including the last trads. The gauges are never accurate so use the oddometer & refill after say 200 miles


JohnV6
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However innaccurate the old moving iron gauges at least give a reassuring bounce of the needle when there is some fuel sloshing around the tank wink


Richard

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True


JohnV6
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Originally Posted by John V6
Do whay everyone does including the last trads. The gauges are never accurate so use the oddometer & refill after say 200 miles

I have the very reliable calibrated dip stick which is sufficient. As the car is in winter hibernation I thought a bit of bimbling over the Christmas break could bring the gauge back to some sort of life. It has been stuck on empty for a long time.


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Dropped the good lady off for her shift at 7am this morning so was in the workshop by 7.30.

Changed the steering column on my 1968 Plus 4 as the original had an annoying leak which would be picked up by the MoT tester for sure.

Whilst the dashboard was out I checked the wiring behind the dash, remade a few terminals which looked a bit dubious. Indicator switch was a bit doubtful so swapped that one out for a new old stock one from the spares store.

Checked the wiper motor only to be rewarded with a blown fuse. Removed the motor and you could actually smell the burnt windings. Checked eBay and as luck would have it a bloke breaking Morris Minors about 5 miles from me had one listed for 20 quid on eBay. An hour later, I'd stripped cleaned and painted it, not to mention, drilled and helicoiled the stripped threads in the mounting lugs.

Checked the gear wheel and noticed it was a 140 degree one when my Lucas parts book says that the correct item should be a 130 degree item. Robbed one from a scrap wiper motor but worked out a way of converting a 140 to a 130, will make up a jig to help future conversions.

Dash back in and fired up for a bit to get the oil circulated.

To maintain domestic harmony, cut and split firewood until it went dark then set the D type gearbox casing up on milling machine to carry out a mod to increase oil flow to the front bearing .

All in all a productive day

Arwyn

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Since I have the engine out (putting in a 5 speed this winter) I decided to replace some gaskets. Got a hold of a gasket set here in the states and pulled things apart. Found out today that the timing cover and water pump gaskets are wrong. Picked up some gasket material and made my own. Very happy with the results. Haven't done that in 40 years.

The oil pan gasket is wrong too so I am going to make my own. Is cork the right material to use?


Paul

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Pauly, I've only ever seen cork used on an oil pan. A word of caution, though...I'm older than dirt, and alternatives may not have existed the last time I looked.

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Originally Posted by PaulyG
Since I have the engine out (putting in a 5 speed this winter) I decided to replace some gaskets. Got a hold of a gasket set here in the states and pulled things apart. Found out today that the timing cover and water pump gaskets are wrong. Picked up some gasket material and made my own. Very happy with the results. Haven't done that in 40 years.

The oil pan gasket is wrong too so I am going to make my own. Is cork the right material to use?



Do the core plugs whilst you have the engine out, you will be surprised how thin they get! You can also give the block a wash out whilst you are at it.

I also change the rear oil seal as well for piece of mind

Cork is the best for sump gaskets with a little sealing compound applied with a child's paint brush !

Arwyn

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Originally Posted by Arwyn Williams
Originally Posted by PaulyG
Since I have the engine out (putting in a 5 speed this winter) I decided to replace some gaskets. Got a hold of a gasket set here in the states and pulled things apart. Found out today that the timing cover and water pump gaskets are wrong. Picked up some gasket material and made my own. Very happy with the results. Haven't done that in 40 years.

The oil pan gasket is wrong too so I am going to make my own. Is cork the right material to use?



Do the core plugs whilst you have the engine out, you will be surprised how thin they get!

Arwyn


Agreed - especially that pesky rear one that you can only get to by removing the engine....


1972 4/4 4 seater, 1981 MGB GT
1984 Harley Davidson Electra Glide, 1990 Kawasaki ZX10
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