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Joined: Oct 2022
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Just catching up on this thread, SimonH you state that you could make this socket, are you going to? If you did I’m sure you would have many owners who would purchase one including me.


PhilE
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Hi all. An update.

In the end I purchased a 70mm A/F socket and a 1 metre breaker bar. First attempt to remove wheel nut resulted in the breaker bar deflecting like Robin Hood’s bow (appropriate perhaps as I am a MSCC Sherwood group member!). In the end I resorted to the trusty mallet and hammer supplied with the car. I can tell you it took quite some effort to shift the week nuts. I torqued the wheel nuts to 120NM with a large torque wrench the gave them a further quarter of a turn with the socket and breaker bar. They are very tight indeed and as they will continue to self tighten. I am confident this will be a good working solution.

Well worth removing them for an inboard fettle and a wipe with an ACF50 soaked rag though. Once a working garage solution was derived I found I could remove, clean and refit all four wheels in a couple of hours (with the aid of a 2 tonne trolley jack) which I think is quite reasonable. Wouldn’t do it more than twice a year though.


Andy
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Originally Posted by AndyMog57
Hi all. An update.

In the end I purchased a 70mm A/F socket and a 1 metre breaker bar. First attempt to remove wheel nut resulted in the breaker bar deflecting like Robin Hood’s bow (appropriate perhaps as I am a MSCC Sherwood group member!). In the end I resorted to the trusty mallet and hammer supplied with the car. I can tell you it took quite some effort to shift the week nuts. I torqued the wheel nuts to 120NM with a large torque wrench the gave them a further quarter of a turn with the socket and breaker bar. They are very tight indeed and as they will continue to self tighten. I am confident this will be a good working solution.

Well worth removing them for an inboard fettle and a wipe with an ACF50 soaked rag though. Once a working garage solution was derived I found I could remove, clean and refit all four wheels in a couple of hours (with the aid of a 2 tonne trolley jack) which I think is quite reasonable. Wouldn’t do it more than twice a year though.

Don’t over do it, as you can ruin the threads! Also, I think acf50, wonderful though it is, is not the stuff for splines and the mating surface betwixt hub and wheel; a generous greasing is recommended otherwise you will get clonking when changing direction snd worn splines.


Doug
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Yes no need to overdo it, by all means check after 50 miles or so. I use copper slip on the splines. You need a good grease not a thin oil.


JohnV6
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Originally Posted by John V6
Yes no need to overdo it, by all means check after 50 miles or so. I use copper slip on the splines. You need a good grease not a thin oil.


Blimey John, I don’t know what makes you think I would use anything other than copper slip or similar on the splines etc. the ACF50 was wiped on the inner polished stainless steel rims and back of spokes. A lifetime of stripping and building motorcycles comes in handy ;-)


Andy
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Just in case you have an old tin on the shelf...I was told many years ago by an old proper 'motor engineer' to not use Black Moly grease on spinners or wheel nuts as the Molybdenum Disulphide sort of modifies and lessens the thread grip IIRC


Jon M
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Originally Posted by AndyMog57
Originally Posted by John V6
Yes no need to overdo it, by all means check after 50 miles or so. I use copper slip on the splines. You need a good grease not a thin oil.


Blimey John, I don’t know what makes you think I would use anything other than copper slip or similar on the splines etc. the ACF50 was wiped on the inner polished stainless steel rims and back of spokes. A lifetime of stripping and building motorcycles comes in handy ;-)


Good idea to clean the wires with ACF50 thumbs


Craig Jezz


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Originally Posted by AndyMog57
Originally Posted by John V6
Yes no need to overdo it, by all means check after 50 miles or so. I use copper slip on the splines. You need a good grease not a thin oil.


Blimey John, I don’t know what makes you think I would use anything other than copper slip or similar on the splines etc. the ACF50 was wiped on the inner polished stainless steel rims and back of spokes. A lifetime of stripping and building motorcycles comes in handy ;-)

Apologies from me too Andy. In trying to be helpful, I misunderstood your inboard fettling!


Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

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1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
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This subject comes up with far too greater regularity causing I suspect raised eyebrows from many old school folk. Hopefully we can put this thread and others to bed with the quote from MWS who supply the centre lock wire wheels to MMC:

There are no recommended torque settings for spinners and the exact number of turns will vary from one vehicle to the next

Given the shape of spinners why does anyone think when used as originally intended there ever would be confused2 . Common sense needs to prevail, so the handbooks "hammer tight" should be sufficient advice.

I will admit to using one of Lionel's aluminium tools to save cosmetic damage to spinners but only with a 700mm breaker bar. The removal tool I carry with me is shorter still but I can still just manage to undo in an emergency away from garage.


Richard

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1945 Guzzi Airone
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For those with two metre breaker bars here are situations to be avoided innocent

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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