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Joined: Nov 2018
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Originally Posted by PaulyG
Thanks! I'd like to say it was easy, but it was far from it. I think the order is the key. And getting the nuts on the U-bolts is good to do while there is still plenty of room. Finish tightening them when everything else is complete.

One question I have, I've read that I should torque the U-bolts nuts to 30 ft lbs. I only have a conventional torque wrench that I would normally put a socket on, but that won't fit between the chassis and the springs. Any suggestions?


I used a normal spanner, and did them up 'tight'. After a couple of weeks I checked them all over and gave them another tweak.


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Originally Posted by TBM
Originally Posted by PaulyG
Thanks! I'd like to say it was easy, but it was far from it. I think the order is the key. And getting the nuts on the U-bolts is good to do while there is still plenty of room. Finish tightening them when everything else is complete.

One question I have, I've read that I should torque the U-bolts nuts to 30 ft lbs. I only have a conventional torque wrench that I would normally put a socket on, but that won't fit between the chassis and the springs. Any suggestions?


I used a normal spanner, and did them up 'tight'. After a couple of weeks I checked them all over and gave them another tweak.


That's what I did.


Paul
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Originally Posted by Paul F
Originally Posted by TBM
Originally Posted by PaulyG
Thanks! I'd like to say it was easy, but it was far from it. I think the order is the key. And getting the nuts on the U-bolts is good to do while there is still plenty of room. Finish tightening them when everything else is complete.

One question I have, I've read that I should torque the U-bolts nuts to 30 ft lbs. I only have a conventional torque wrench that I would normally put a socket on, but that won't fit between the chassis and the springs. Any suggestions?


I used a normal spanner, and did them up 'tight'. After a couple of weeks I checked them all over and gave them another tweak.


That's what I did.


Thanks, boys. That sounds like what I'll do too!


Paul

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Changed engine oil and filter, also changed the gearbox oil for Redline MTL (moss box). Well, correction, I took the Morgan to my local independent for the oil change. I am a bit too long in the tooth to get under the car to drain the oils, even using ramps. The days of crawling under cars changing clutches etc have, unfortunately long gone.


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Originally Posted by GrumpyPa
The days of crawling under cars changing clutches etc have, unfortunately long gone.

I know the feeling! smile


Graham (G4FUJ)

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Originally Posted by Graham, G4FUJ
Originally Posted by GrumpyPa
The days of crawling under cars changing clutches etc have, unfortunately long gone.

I know the feeling! smile

I have trouble putting my socks on these days.


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As I got older, occasional vertigo was my main problem under the car, but the Epley manoeuvre is surprisingly effective at repositioning those pesky inner ear crystals.

Other than that, I'm just careful with what I lift. It's very easy to pull something unexpected!!

One day I'll give up, but that day is not today!


DaveW
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Originally Posted by DaveW
I'm just careful with what I lift. It's very easy to pull something unexpected!!

...reminds me of when I was a student, I had to be careful what I drank, as it's very easy to pull something unexpected! winky


Peter
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Beer goggles are dangerous. nerd


DaveW
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Originally Posted by GrumpyPa
Changed engine oil and filter, also changed the gearbox oil for Redline MTL (moss box). Well, correction, I took the Morgan to my local independent for the oil change. I am a bit too long in the tooth to get under the car to drain the oils, even using ramps. The days of crawling under cars changing clutches etc have, unfortunately long gone.


I'm lucky that our car has a Ford Kent 1600 with the oil drain plug easily accessible under the bonnet, and the filter is just a short reach under the front bumper. I found a drain pan that fits under the car, so I can change the oil and filter with the car on the ground...

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