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Joined: Jun 2015
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Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Jun 2015
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Originally Posted by Rog
Well today I raised the front and checked the tie rods. On the face of it all seemed very tight indeed. However I thought I would just back off the lock nuts and check the actual tension. When I did it was clear there wasn’t any pre load or tension in the rods at all, on either side. There may have been tension originally when the car was built but that had now dissipated. This probably explains my original squeak!

So what to do? I thought it might be prudent to restore a little tension to improve the rigidity so jacked the car in the center such that the lower axle beam was spot on level (wheels off). I was quite impressed how straight the lower axle beam actually was. I then applied a little tension in the rods, about 1.5 turns of the nut each side. I have no idea if this is adequate but didn’t want to over stress anything. This was enough to changed the angle of the out board portion of the lower axle by around 0.2 degrees on each side.

So everything is nicely symmetrical with a little tension now. Previously the car drove very nicely anyway and this is only a minor tweak so hopefully it won’t change anything too much . A test drive tomorrow, we shall see how things go…. woohoo


There is guidance on gomog about this…I know that because I have had two broken tie rods in the past after hitting pot holes.
Basically, you need to jack up off the ground, place axle stands inboard close to the cross frame and also place props (i use an old bottle jack) just touching the cross frame as far outboard as you can go. Then jack under the king pins and as you gently increase the lift, the crossframe should leave the inner and outer supports at the same time, You will find that it needs quite a lot of tension on the rods to achieve the desired result.


Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
Joined: May 2012
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Rog Offline
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Thanks Doug, that’s interesting. I was quite wary of over tensioning. These tie rods don’t look particularly strong and I can’t see what the benefit would be from a structural perspective to go overboard. As you say you have had two broken rods so there does appear to be an inherent limit to avoid nuisance breaking, particularly given the state of our roads now. I’m happy for the moment that at least I now have some tensional stress back in the structure and the outer portions of the lower axle appear equally strained, and the car rides the bumps beautifully too. In hindsight perhaps for the record I should have recorded the torque...


Roger
2011 Plus 4
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Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
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GoMog advice on adjusting tie rods here.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
Joined: Jun 2015
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Talk Morgan Expert
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
GoMog advice on adjusting tie rods here.

I notice that the sketch referred to, showing position of axle stands has disappeared
Also, when I last did it, I think I released the clamps on the over rider brackets first, otherwise the rods would be fighting a much more rigid structure, and there could then be a danger of overtightening to achieve the desired effect.


Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 8,657
Likes: 407
Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
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Originally Posted by Leroy
Discovered the other day before a quick spin out that I had a screw in one of the tyres, which accounted for the PSI of only 16.

Bought one of those self repair kits on Amazon where you effectively push in a sticky strip of rubber to seal the hole. Took more force than I imagined, but worked a treat. Plenty of more strips in the hand kit, now gives me reassurance should I pick up a puncture mid journey. Purchased a handy cordless compressor as well which takes up less space than a conventional pump, which automatically stops when at the correct PSI. Jobs a good un.

I would not trust this old school method. Not sure such a standalone repair is legal nowadays anyway. Your local tyre shop will provide (if deemed possible) ideally a combination repair, vulcanising a patch from inside of tyre as well as sealing hole caused by foreign body after preparation. The latter is important to avoid ingress of moisture which can degrade internal steel belts over time.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
Joined: May 2014
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Black Rat
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Black Rat
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There is no way I would use one of these kits except as a get you home device much like a space saver. Having spent 10 years as a roads policing officer I have seen the results of tyre failure on A roads and Motorways. If I get a puncture I get a new tyre, my life and others depend on that little patch of rubber. Incidentally the Police never repair tyres always replace.


Keith
2013 narrow bodied + 4 Ruby.
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 502
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Originally Posted by Burgundymog
There is no way I would use one of these kits except as a get you home device much like a space saver. Having spent 10 years as a roads policing officer I have seen the results of tyre failure on A roads and Motorways. If I get a puncture I get a new tyre, my life and others depend on that little patch of rubber. Incidentally the Police never repair tyres always replace.


I agree, it is only a temporary repair till I get the tyre replaced.


2004 Series 1 Roadster
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 104
Likes: 18
L - Learner Plates On
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L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 104
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Replaced old wiper blades with those from Melvyn Rutter. 7" improved design. They look much more professional. Was easy to put on. Looking forward to rain to check out. See pic: old vs new.
[Linked Image]wiper old by Werni Wehrli, auf Flickr

[Linked Image]wiper new by Werni Wehrli, auf Flickr


Plus 4 110 Edition 2019
1 member likes this: MOGDave
Joined: Nov 2018
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Talk Morgan Sage
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Talk Morgan Sage
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At some point in its past, the springs had been removed from the seats, a couple of cross bars welded in, and pirelli webbing added. It had started to tear, and had lost its elasticity so replaced it today. I also put some little bits of silicon tube round the clips to hopefully stop it tearing in the future

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
1972 4/4, 1981 MGBGT, 1984 FLHT1340, 1980 XLH1000, 1990 ZX10
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 502
Talk Morgan Regular
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[Linked Image]

A little bit of bling on the t-bar.


2004 Series 1 Roadster
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