Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Re-adjusting SSL front suspension

That's what I thought so I measured and bought an appropriately sized adjustable one but thickness was an issue. Peter or Dan from SSL will be able to help or a local dealer who might have spares.

I'd look for a C spanner for a motorcycle preload adjuster, they are nice and thin.

62mm I believe

Just wasted a couple of frustrating hours trying to re adjust my SSL front suspension, without success.
It was fitted along with new king pins about 5000 miles ago.
I noticed that the rebound springs were not able to be rotated, so set about to adjust.
With everything greased, removed shockers, did the drop test several times and rebound springs were still tight. Unscrewed the locking ring and loosened the other ring a few turns, but doing the drop test repeatedly, nothing seemed to change. I have gone both ways by a good inch or more but the rebound spring remains at a compressed length of about 55 mm. I cannot get a gap to appear.
Have I missed something?

The roll at the front end of the Morgan is largely controlled by the relationship between the main spring and the smaller rebound spring and when you set up the SSL front end you adjust the spring platforms so you get the rebound spring just kissing the bottom of the stub axle after bouncing it a few times.

This is critical because if there is a gap above the rebound spring then you lose some of the roll control, so it should be no more than 1mm. This is a "regular service" adjustment.
I'm not sure about the need for the rebound spring to turn as normally the stub axle doesn't quite touch the spring....

If you need further help do contact Peter Ballard, design@suspensionsupplies.co.uk

Can only suggest there must be a point the stub axle to rebound spring clearance appears with the suspension loaded, i.e. car sitting on its wheels. As you know releasing pre-load on main spring achieves this but stiction can change this quite dramatically.

Suggestions therefore:
Ensure kingpins freshly greased
Ask a friend to sit in driver's seat and bounce if necessary
Try using initial SSL settings according to model and spacer position

Thanks Richard and Peter
I have had another go and slackened off the main spring completely . Then after a couple of drop tests, the rebound spring became loose at last. Re applied tension to the top to give just 15mm of thread showing, drop tests again and the rebound spring is gin tight. Recommended thread gap for a modern plus 4 is 28 mm so something not quite right.
I made contact with Peter B and as he lives not too far away has very kindly offered to pop over tomorrow. What service!
More info when sorted.

I had a situation on my old 4/4 when I first installed the SSL kit whereby even though I could see a gap above the rebound spring, I could not rotate it.

The rebound spring was so tight in the bottom crosshead lug that it wouldn't rotate with just "finger power"

Eventually I freed it with Mole grips and gradually loosened it off to the point where I could rotate it if I used a rubber glove for grip.

Even now, If it won't rotate when I think it should, I double check to see if it is sticking in the crosshead lug.

Well, problem solved, with reassuring advice from Peter B.
As we are all aware, the critical point to aim for is the rebound springs JUST kissing the stub axle assembly, so that it is only just possible to rotate the spring by hand, (assuming its not stuck or gunged up).
The installation instructions suggest a good starting point for a modern plus 4 with lower ground clearance, is to have about 30mm of spare thread showing above the adjuster rings. This is where I became concerned as I expected the rebound spring to relax within maybe 10% or so of that measurement...but the eventual correct setting was only 10mm. (It’s a Morgan, sir...!)

New kingpins and SSL were fitted 5k miles ago and I was advised that it was set a “bit on the tight side” and would probably bed in. However, I have never been able to see a relaxed rebound spring since it was done. Incidentally, the spare thread was set at 28mm by the installer.

My method was first to unwind the top adjustment completely on BOTH sides, do several bounce tests with shockers removed and then I could see a good few mm of slack had appeared. Then by screwing down a few mm at a time, doing bump tests, rotating steering to ensure settlement, I arrived at 10 mm of thread showing. I have also reset the shockers to 5 clicks above soft (previously 9) and everything seems fine. So it appears that I have never experienced the true feel of SSL since its installation!
Extremely grateful to Peter B and hope this will help others who may find a similar predicament.

Excellent news and it is great to hear just how well Peter looks after customers....

I think some dealers simply don't take the time to set up the suspension properly.