Roadster now up on axle stands, waiting for the replacement tie rod to arrive from MMC next week. Removing the two broken halves was simple. I was surprised to find that the outboard nuts were both finger tight - perhaps because the tension has been released? Anyway: I can detect no "collateral damage", so will fit the new rod and then drive the 20 miles to Berrybrook for an alignment check. Hopefully my fears of need a new crossframe will be allayed!
Fairly obvious, but to do the replacement, place the cast lug in position on the chassis rail. Add a locknut to each end of the rod, screw ed all along its length of thread. Then feed the new rod up through the hole at the top end, and then slide back into position to screw into the lug with locknut. (If you simply screw it on to the lug first, there is not enough wiggle room to get the rod back through the top hole.)
I have over riders on my car which are attached with a sturdy framework that braces across the top and bottom tubes of the cross frame.When adjusting the tension on mine, I released the bolts from that framework, before applying tension to the new rod so that everything was free to find its own position. If you don’t do that, there is a danger of overtightening. Note also, in the past, after going into a pot hole, it actually broke a couple of bolts on the over rider frame clamps, so check those too whilst you are at it.
While I am here, I was surprised with Heinz’ experience of the car virtually out of control with a broken rod…the first time I have heard of that.
