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Joined: Nov 2018
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I‘ve got only a 2018 Plus4. But never water from this area. But your (much more expensive) car runs under warranty.

My Mog is a little inkontinent in the usual way left and right. My (British) dealer told me: they do ist all, it‘s difficult to cure. See the trads.

But you‘ve got a high price qualtiy car. Your Dealer must (and can) cure it.

Greets René

Hallo, ich habe „nur“ einen alten 2018er Plus4. Aber da gab es nie einen Wassereintritt in diesem untypischen Bereich. Und direkt bei der Abholung im November in GB gab es viel Wasser. Aber dein teures Auto läuft ja noch unter Garantie.

Mein noch „traditioneller“ Morgan ist etwas inkontinent an den üblichen Stellen rechts und links. Aber mein englischer Händler meinte (wie auch hier immer mal Thema): das ist schwer zu beseitigen und das machen sie fast alle. Siehe auch hier bei den „Trads“.

Aber Du hast ein teures „Premium“ Auto gekauft. Da sollte der Händler (und kann!) das beseitigen. Dazu muss eventuell einfach nur die Scheibe runter. Und ein bisschen Dichtmasse drunter. Halt arbeitsintensiv.

Gruß René


2018 plus4 (sports green)
with a homemade really shiny red tinted dash…
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Was that an easy fix ? Just driven through torrential rain and rain collecting on Transmission tunnel (and then on cornering running down my leg ). putting my hand up behind the dashboard i could feel it dripping down on to transmission tunnel. I have checked the rubbers under the wiper arms and they look ok. The left hand (nearside) windscreen washer jet is slightly loose and i guess it could be entering at that point ?. The right side nozzle/jet is firmly fixed. If that is the case is it an easy fix?. Should it be removed and refitted with a new washer (not sure how it dismantles) or put some sealant around/under it?. Noticed a mention in the thread to "Captain Trolleys Sealer".
Thanks in advance of any comment's.


17 Roadster 3.7 Willow Green (Geneva Car)
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96 Plus4 (prev)
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Just barreling along
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If water is entering via the washer jet base then the only real lasting cure is to drop the dash, release the pipes and unscrew each jet, replace the little outer washer with a tiny rubber one or perhpas an O ring and refit everthing back, whilst in there check the quality of the washer pipework as some have found it becomes brittle and leaks (I suspect the ethanol in winter screen wash additive rots the tubing)


Jon M
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Been reading this post with interest as I've an issue with the windscreen water pipes on my Aero 8. Seems there may be a blockage causing the pipes to come adrift from the T piece. I've replaced the tubing from the bottle to the T piece but the tubes from the jets have come off and split and not long enough to cut and re-attach. Have ordered some connectors but welcome any other ideas? Managed to take a photo.
[Linked Image]


AnDrew G
2003 Aero S1
2009 Aeromax - past





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Drewg.My theory is due to the extreme heat created under the dash of the series1 when the pipe gets old and after all the fluctuations the water pressure is enough to blow the pipe off. It's a bugger of a job i put a snot of glue on the ends at my second attempt with new pipe and t piece.I also got my heated screen to work, well done mate if you finish without cutting yourself its a bonus.......Em

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One of the common ingredients in screenwash is ethanol, hence it rots the pipework


Jon M
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In heavy rain and at speed on the trads you do get a fine spray of water droplets onto your legs, most noticeable when wearing shorts. It comes in via heater vents. Any CX owners noticed same?


Richard

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Talk Morgan Guru
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
In heavy rain and at speed on the trads you do get a fine spray of water droplets onto your legs, most noticeable when wearing shorts. It comes in via heater vents. Any CX owners noticed same?

The CX models do not have this extravagant luxury on board. Only a traditional Morgan offers a built-in SPA.🤓


'14 4/4 graphite grey
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You could try silicon pipes instead of the usual plastic ones. They are more flexible anyway so selecting the correct size to push onto t-piece ends means a slightly smaller bore can be used to get a tight seal. Their flexibility means they are easier to push on. They are also less prone to furring up inside. We used them in the cigar factory in the pumped adhesive systems. You can also get a version that is bio resistant in that it increase further the anti microbial/algae/muck build up.


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Originally Posted by sospan
You could try silicon pipes instead of the usual plastic ones. They are more flexible anyway so selecting the correct size to push onto t-piece ends means a slightly smaller bore can be used to get a tight seal. Their flexibility means they are easier to push on. They are also less prone to furring up inside. We used them in the cigar factory in the pumped adhesive systems. You can also get a version that is bio resistant in that it increase further the anti microbial/algae/muck build up.
Originally Posted by sospan
You could try silicon pipes instead of the usual plastic ones. They are more flexible anyway so selecting the correct size to push onto t-piece ends means a slightly smaller bore can be used to get a tight seal. Their flexibility means they are easier to push on. They are also less prone to furring up inside. We used them in the cigar factory in the pumped adhesive systems. You can also get a version that is bio resistant in that it increase further the anti microbial/algae/muck build up.
Have bought couple of different pipes and connectors but the aero uses 2 different size pipes/tubes connected to the T piece so having a devil of a time trying extend the existing pipes to the T piece...tomorrows another day!!! The smaller bore pipes won't work with the connectors I've bought and struggling to find alternatives on Amazon.


AnDrew G
2003 Aero S1
2009 Aeromax - past





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