Been following the whole story with great interest! About to start out on the 'upgrade path' so will welcome your opinion on what to do first. Will be interested more in the 'driveability' than ultimate dyno numbers - but I think it's fantastic that you are unleashing the potential of the base engine.
My advice would be to set your target at 183hp and then beat a hasty path to Fusion Fabrications.
Stage 1: FF exhaust manifold, 200 cell cat & sports exhaust system = 163hp
![[Linked Image]](https://i.ibb.co/2FdXBkD/Monty-s-New-Manifold-1.jpg)
Stage 2: FF inlet manifold = 183hp and a considerable increase in torque
![[Linked Image]](https://i.ibb.co/1s2hs55/Idle-Valve-Reversed.jpg)
I would argue the above FF long runner plenum is a much better solution than fitting throttle bodies as Morgan did with the SS. ITBs will always lose you torque largely due to their short runner inlet manifold, and you're not running ITBs off the stock Ford/Visteon ECU either!
At this point you'll now need to feed the engine with 20% more fuel to match all the additional air you're now shifting, without doing so the engine will run lean and be flat as a witch's t*t!My solution was a bit overkill if the intention was to stop at 183hp, but I knew I was going further, so I replaced the Ford/Visteon ECU with a Plug n Play EMU Black from Ecumaster. This is an outstanding standalone ECU, at £1,250 supplied with a 95% there ST150 base map it was extremely good value for money and light years ahead of the 20 year old technology Omex as used by Morgan on their Supersports model.
However, you don't necessarily need to go to this expense, if you're stopping at Stage 2 (183hp) speak with Rog as he's been working with a remote mapper who can write a Visteon fuel table that can simply be re-flashed to your factory ECU. I can't see anyone charging much more than £150 for what is essentially just a file, although that's not really for me to say, and there will of course be a charge to do the re-flash plus postage costs.
I've also gone for 440cc injectors as I'm shooting for 206hp, my standard Focus/Mondeo injectors were hitting 80% duty pre-cams which was fine, but you really shouldn't go beyond 85% duty. This is further proof I was making 180 plus horsepower with just the FF inlet manifold and exhaust system.
You do not need bigger injectors unless you plan to go over 190hp, so that's more money saved, in terms of cost vs gain Stage 2 is definitely the sweet spot, as such it's crying out for someone to offer a simple and cost effective three part bolt on tuning kit that would take any Duratec Plus 4 to 183hp.
1. FF Exhaust manifold & 200 cell cat (£2,000 ish)
2. FF inlet manifold/plenum - (£1,000 ish)
3. Visteon ECU re-flash to suit (£300 ish)
The total of £3,300.00 is an approximate figure, and I'd speculate it could be further reduced by roughly £300 if you keep your factory silencer and tail pipe. There's no real power penalty in doing so as all the restriction is all in the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter, the car will also be more civilised like that as you'll enjoy a quieter exhaust note.
In summary, and if you're shrewd, you should be able to take your Duratec Plus 4 from 143hp to 183hp for roughly £3k, that's a 28% increase which in the world of naturally aspirated internal combustion engine tuning is actually extremely good value for money.
NOW STOP AND ENJOY YOUR MUCH FASTER DURATEC PLUS 4!What you've essentially created here is your very own MMC Plus 4 GDI Clubsport kit, and with the same results but for over £1,000 less

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However, if like me you can't help yourself and you absolutely must go further, it's the classic scenario of diminishing returns!
Make no mistake you can easily get 200 horsepower and more out of a 2.0 Duratec, but to get there it will involve quite a bit more spending, for example you'll need a set of cams and with cams you will really need bigger injectors. I also wouldn't count on the Ford/Visteon ECU being up to the job of controlling them, and even if it could you certainly won't enjoy a nice idle without fitting a good stand alone ECU.
Cost wise a set of Newman Phase Two cams are in the region of £500 and have the potential to add up to 30hp, so on the face of it that’s cheap power.
![[Linked Image]](https://i.ibb.co/cCR0cVz/Newman-cams-300x300.jpg)
But to get there it's strongly recommended you also spend a further £150 on a set of Bosch 440cc injectors, as I've done.
![[Linked Image]](https://i.ibb.co/2v9f7y2/Bosch-Blue-Giants-Suit-Fiesta-ST150-440cc.jpg)
And to control them, I strongly recommend investing a further £1,250 in the excellent Plug n Play EMU Black ECU.
![[Linked Image]](https://i.ibb.co/D7ZNqNm/ECU-Masters-EMU-Black-Morgan-Plus-4-Duratec-2-0-Plug-n-Play-Mk3-Ford-Mondeo-4-U71-12-A650-NA-ECU.jpg)
Keep in mind if you're paying someone to fit your cams it could easily cost a further £600 so you can see how it all starts to add up, and why the smart money is on stopping at 183hp. However, if you absolutely must join the 200hp club you will have to fit cams and with peak power now arriving at 7,250 you may also want to consider a set of 180lb valve beehive springs.
![[Linked Image]](https://i.ibb.co/c2Z4SQs/KK3459-Valve-Springs.jpg)
The above aren't strictly essential, however, I've decided they are a good idea as valve float can be very expensive when it strikes, so at just £130 a set and given you're in there already when you're changing the cams, a set of 180lb valve beehive springs are somewhat a no-brainer.
As is a £25 set of new valve stem seals.
![[Linked Image]](https://i.ibb.co/2d3qxcH/s-l1600.jpg)
As you can see, beyond the relatively straightforward and inexpensive 183hp Stage 2 tune, it all starts to get a bit



