Is it just me...? In every picture of frontline mg I've seen here on the forum, the doorline looks poor. I keep noticing it but I also notice no one else mentions it. Am I being over critical? After all, they're not cheap. Nick
It gets mentioned a lot on the MG forums, mainly the boot fit being too high but also the door gaps, mainly being too big. Lots of comments about using new aftermarket boot rubbers being blamed and others saying you can squash them down to get the boot to fit. I do wonder if it is as bad in real life as some of the photos.
From what I have seen of my car when visiting it looks pretty good so I am hoping the workshop in Australia has done a nice job of the fitting. Hopefully not too much longer before I get the car and get a good look at it.
Is it just me...? In every picture of frontline mg I've seen here on the forum, the doorline looks poor. I keep noticing it but I also notice noone else mentions it. Am I being over critical? After all, they're not cheap. Nick
You think that's bad ? Have a look at this "fully restored" car currently for sale near here by a reputable classic dealer. Bonnet fit ? It's so bad I had to photograph it.
Peter 2009 3-litre Roadster "Ivor", royal ivory / green
Interesting vid, and for sure that plenum is very attractive. though a £230k MGB...!
I went through my MG phase a few decades back, having brought a couple of old corroded B`s back to life. I well remember using a couple of brazing rods to extend the rear edge of the door to close up the gap..
On the other hand I am sure I typed of a Ferrari dealership ordering a new door skin to repair a lock that had been torn out of it by a thief. The new skin fitted where it touched and thus they binned the idea of trying to fit that, and ordered up a new door, the new door`s non-fit was much the same..! In the end they sorted the original door with a bit of tin bashing and some filler... Seems a degree of skills may have been lost in some bodyshops..?
BL panel fit was ever suspect on just about everything..
As for a V8 that really sounds great ( all be it one breathed upon) you could try beaming up the vid in this link.
Agreed. The fit on mine is better, and that's as it left the factory, and the whole car cost me £4K.
Since I've had it, I've spent a couple of hundred on the suspension, and it handles well within my limits as a driver. I've spent another couple of hundred on the brakes all round, so it also stops as it should. Not doing much to the engine, as the performance and economy are ideal for my commute and the odd back lane bimble to Worcester and back. If I wanted a really flash looking interior, I'd could spend a couple of grand getting everything re-done, but personally I wouldn't want something that I'm too precious about, and I can't do leather, so happy with what I've got. I don't think I'd want the fuel filler hose going through the main cab like the LEGO one either, even it they have covered it in leather. The rear mount one on mine means I can pull up to either side of a petrol pump.
Just bought some new wheels (minilites again, but in Black and 15"). Did look at the Dunlops but they were £1K more so didn't bother. All in all, a good usuable MGB GT for around £7K all in.
However, I'm sure they'll all get snapped up very quickly, and the owners will be very happy with them.
"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd" 1972 4/4, 1981 MGBGT, 1984 FLHT1340, 1980 XLH1000, 1990 ZX10
Well, guys....in 1980, new front MGB wings didn't fit properly. They were already a mess because the press tools were worn out. Until around 1975, the joints and imperfections were leaded, which made a huge difference. My 74B had a lot of leading around the front wing edges which I wanted to keep, so I just replaced the lower halves behind the front wheels. The drivers door was a bit marginal. No holes but some inner skin corrosion on the lower edge. I knew that a new door wouldn't fit right. So I took some plumb readings around my door, went to the local MG specialist and he let me measure every drivers door in stock. Every one measured different, and none were close to my original.
It turns out that you have to split the spot welds in the door, then twist the outer skin around the inner panel to fit, then reweld it. The doors on my 1980 were a terrible fit from new, as was the paintwork. The problem is the MGB door hinger are over engineered, with limited in and out movement. Fitting a freshly painted door to a freshly painted shell, is an absolute nightmare.
The curvature of the leading edge of the door is pretty much fixed, so the only way to get a decent fit is to work the top part of the wing curve. The lip on the wing rear edge is close to the door, so a decent fit is very time consuming.
Last edited by DaveW; 10/10/2310:12 AM.
DaveW '05 Red Roadster S1 '16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4