Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Adapter Brake Fluid

Hello everyone,

I would like to change the brake fluid on my Morgan 4/4 1600 Kent BJ 1972 using a pressure relief device.
Can someone spontaneously tell me which adapter I need?
I have an approx. 43 mm adapter for BMW, but it has a coarser thread.

Thank you for your help, Markus


Sample photo attached

[img]https://www.ebay.de/itm/39306644191...tomid=ED6bneEZAAAAu4cvZKJ5tcO7gQECAAAAAA[/img]

For pressure bleeding I use Gunsons G4062 Eezibleed Kit which does come with a number of adapters. I don't have a good memory, but if you have a Girling master cylinder that probably has a 1.75 inch thread. In the past I have used the G4062 on that size of master cylinder

However I don't know if the kit has been modernised to accommodate our metric climate. I will have a look in the garage and see if I can work out the thread pitch.

Kit includes:
bottle
5x rubber seals
cap assembly with tyre connector
3x hoses: 3.5mm inner diameter x 303mm, 5.4mm inner diameter x303mm, 5.4 inner diameter x 183mm
4 x plastic caps 25, 27, 44/45 & 46mm

There should be an appropriate adaptor in the Gunson kit.

If not, buy a spare cap and make your own!!

Arwyn

Yep, the Gunson kit does have one that fits my 1972 4/4 but unfortunately I couldn't tell you what size or thread pitch.

I checked the G4062 that I have, actually I have two and confirmed they still ship the caps to fit girling master cylinders

. The instruction manual states contents as

1 x Bottle
1 x Bottle Cap assembly with tyre connector
2 x 30mm Hose (2 size 80mm/60mm)
1 x 25mm Metal Cap and seal for Lockheed systems.
1 x 27mm Metal Cap and seal for VAG
1 x 44/45mml Plastic Cap and 2 seals for metal Girling and all ATE systems. (For 44mm use thin seal/For 45mm use thick seal).
1 x 46mm Metal Cap and seal for some Girling systems.

On my Morgan, and on previous Morgans, I use the 44/45mml Plastic Cap

Hi Markus,

I love new ideas, if only because they force us to re-examine old ones. The most important feature, overview, is that you are addressing a too often neglected area on all cars. The need to properly maintain your braking system. After all, one's automobile safety is primarily held between the condition of brakes and tyres. Brake fluid must be changed regularly as it deteriorates and/or causes sadness over time. The very fact you are changing yours puts you WAY ahead of most of us! Brake fluid changing (manufacturers recommend every two years) is something owners and even professional mechanics often to not check or do. (There are inexpensive fluid quality testers available. The use of one is often humbling.) https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=brake+fluid+tester&crid=34KU9RFKO2GK7&sprefix=brake+fluid+tester%2Caps%2C263&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
2. The other brake fluid problem is air in the hydraulics, requiring tedious bleeding at three points.

It is this last that makes me muse about your proposed method over the traditional procedure. I am musing while I write. After all, the goal is to change all the brake fluid for fresh with the least amount of effort and while avoiding pumping air into the hydraulics. You wish to do that by pressure at the reservoir. But there is already a built in pressurize source at the brake pedal. A second system to do the same thing seems unnecessary. And w

The traditional method requires someone at the reservoir to make sure the reservoir stays topped up during the procedure, though the need for that person is largely eliminated if you merely upend a bottle of fresh fluid into the reservoir. Then you only need two people, one at the brake pedal watching the upended bottle and another (presumably yourself) at the bleeding point. Pump pressurizing at the reservoir really doesn't eliminate the need for a second person. Whether one pumps at the pedal or the pressurizes at the reservoir doesn't change much and may increase the risk of air entry. Or am I wrong here? If so, can you help me out?

But there IS another factor which your idea may help with. When pumping at the pedal with open the bleeding points, one by one, one can suck back on the release stroke. If one is sucking back air, that is very sad. That can be prevented by placing a little plastic tube over the bleeders with the other end of the tube submerged in a glass jar filled with brake fluid. Ergo, on the upstroke, one sucks back fluid rather than air. It also allows the person at that end determine when the old fluid has been completely expelled, old fluid, discolored to some degree, shows up in the clear fluid in the bottle very visibly. I use the closed end of a small bleeder sized spanner and THEN put on the tube as this allows to open and close the bleeder easily.

So.
1. a bottle or two of the right fluid (I shun silicone brake fluids like the plague, using DOT 5.1 which is DOT 3&4 compatible and has better properties than DOT 5) There are also other fine fluids compatible with what the Factory uses (which is not the top stuff). DOT 5.1 eliminates the need for label reading.
2. a sufficiently full glass jar.
3. a plastic tube that fits over the bleeder nipple
4. a second person to pump the pedal and watch the upended bottle while you determine when the old fluid is eliminated at the necessary corners. The need for the second person explains why most of us marry. It makes so many things cheaper. Once you close the bleed (while holding the brake pedal to the floor) the pedal should become as hard as rock.
5. The sequence of which bleeding points are used are:
i. the front brake that is farthest from the pedal..which changes from RHD to LHD.
ii. Then the other front brake
iii. finally the single bleeding point at the rear.

But I am eager to see the results of your proposed method! Changing one's own brake fluid saves a small fortune these days.

https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/bleeding.html

L.

P.S. The adapter your need merely depend on the fitting used by pressurizing system you choose.

The Gunson Eazibleed is a one man job. No pedal pumping or worrying about back flow.

They've been around for donkeys years - I stand to be corrected but I reckon mine is at least 30 years old.

Eazibleed

Quite right. Good post. I use them for my clutch only bleeding because, with brakes, I have to be at the corners watching the color of the fluid in the mentioned jar. This cannot be easily ascertained with EZ bleeders and many other easy bleeding systems. After all, the primary goal of replacing brake fluid is to make sure that the fluid is pristine. On the other hand, if the fluid is clear and TESTED as fine, then theser things are super if merely removing air from the hydraulics.

I like Gunson. Great and ingenious stuff. I use their C02 analyzer to precisely tune my cars (old EFI) in minutes. Great for carb'ed cars as well. Leaves no room for error.

L.

In response to the OP - this may work: Eazibleed Multipurpose or this Eazibleed Multipurpose 2

Not sure how you use yours, but I set mine up, then go round each wheel and bleed at the caliper or cylinder - can see exactly the colour of fluid and any bubbles?