Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing German confusion. 2018 Plus4 rear wheel bearing

As I said the last days my MOG has pass the German TÜV (MOT) sucsessful.

Sucsessful? It means with luck. The left rear wheel is a little sluggy. I think holding it at 12‘ and 6‘ o‘clock about 1/2 Inch. No centimeter.

I went home and think: let‘s have a look at the bearing in winter. But now I‘ve just had a look at BHM and the very nice parts cataloque. And turned a little confused and not amused.

No amused about the German Dealer, who told me proud „I‘ve fixed your wheelbearings in the correct way, they where a little loose“. At Home I remember Bret (BHM): your rear wheelbearings are a little special. Setting them on torque, they are to tight. Undo the nut, they are a little loose. Loose doesn‘t matter, but tight will destroy them. No more words.

Confused: with a look at the parts, there are no wheelbearings in the way I know from my classic MINI. Two bearings, a washer and ready in the hub. Easy to change.

When I‘m right, there are axle bearings in the axle? And I‘m affraid undo wheel, brakedrum, hub and brake pull the halfshaft and change the bearing? Sounds not as an easy DIY?

So now my hope: lucky words from TM - don‘t worry, there are bearings in the hub too.

The MOG has centerlock wirewheels.

Greets René

Rene,
I think BHM are referring to the front wheel bearings.
The rear ones are inside the diff casing / half shaft casing as you describe. The outer one is held in place by a cover, seal and a retainer so pretty crude & with no real ajustment possibility. GoMog has an image here and more info.

I don't think it a quick DIY job , when the seal leaked on one of mine I got a Morgan agent to do it.

Did the agent change the diff oil as the wrong oil with friction modifiers can cause issues especially with LSD versions.

Others with more knowledge will I am sure comment. The other question I guess is if the brake drom is worn oval and catching at 12 & 6 oclock. Possibly the handbrake is adjusted too tight or the cable is sticking?

Good luck

Hallo John,

thank you for the fast answer! And now it‘s clear, I was not far from the real world. No DIY.

The handbrake was off. On the lift the car was easy moved by one hand.

I think I must look out for a specialist. After a look at the picture in the link: oh, it‘s the wrong (expensive) side. Right looks less difficult. And much less work.

Greets René

I have never had a Morgan rear axle to bits, but from the GOMOG page it seems that TAPER bearings are in use, and that an appropriately sized SHIM may be that which creates the required preload on the bearing to remove any play.

I suspect there will be a selection of different thickness shims available and a specified torque wrench setting after which there would ideally be no play felt in the assembly..?

IF the bearing is worn, fitting an oversized shim to tighten things up would cause the bearing to overheat and fail... !!!

1/2 inch movement felt at the top and bottom of the wheel would be worthy of inspection, however with knock on wheels I guess there is always a chance the wheel to hub fit, might be playing a part in creating the play felt....?

If there is oil escaping the axle, it might be worth checking that the breather is not blocked.

For sure if it has a Limited Slip Diff as shown in the GOMOG drawing, then LSD oil should be used

Hope as John typed above, someone with real world experience of the axle assembly on your model Morgan can jump in with better info to assist you Rene.

Dear Luddite,

Only the look at the part cataloque show me this problem. This combination of bearings means no play in the usual way.

Correction in easy looking „DIY“ ways would be the wrong Step.

Greets René

After some minutes of some fresh thinking and air.

I‘ll change the wheels! If the problem is changing with the wheel so the hub or the wheel is the problem. Lucky with the sparewheel That would be nice.

Greets René

René, it does sound like your issue is hub related and likely not the axle itself which as discussed has taper roller bearings supporting the differential assembly inboard and plain non adjustable bearing supporting the outer ends of half shafts. If the latter had failed to give the half inch = 12.7mm of play at the wheel, oil would be pouring out of the axle from damaged seal, and you haven't mentioned oil leak.

Below shows hub parts for your car. The castellated nut (4) holds hub assembly onto half shaft.



It could be something simple like wheel not tight on splines so a good idea to check this first.

Hello Richard,

Thank you for this Information!

with a little cooling down, a beer in the evening and a bad night. I remember the move feels about caused on a short way, not as from a long way as from the halfshaft.

And as you say the bearings with rollerbearing and „Kegelrollenlager“ and this construction at the wheel/ brake and at the diff looks bombproof.

So on monday I‘ll undo the wheel and the brakedrum and will have a look deeper. So I‘m on the way to solve it myself and also in an area far under 1000,-EUR.

If I‘m wrong and it‘s the axle, my wife (she is well expierenced about my toys) had a deep look in my eyes and said: „ah, about 2000,-EUR? I was affraid about 10(thousend)“…

Greets René

Do you have painted wires ? I have found that if the paint is in the way of the wheel nut it can stop it tightening fully & give play. Make sure themating areas are clean before you refit the wheel.

Hello John,

Yes, there where the standard silver painted wheels. When I remember right they are free of colour in the small area where the nut is running to center it together (I think very bad english). But I fit them as MWS (the wheel company) tells in their manual. Allways with some grease.

So now, in summary, there are some good points for an easy check and if the problem is caused there also an easy DIY repair.

Now, I only need the correct torque for the axle nut. When possible in NM.

Greets René