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Joined: Jan 2015
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I looked at YouTubes of other Morgan cars of the same vintage as mine to try and figure out what is (or maybe is) original for the 4/4 SII. I found that my front bumper brackets----bowed thick steel straps----were used on other Morgans in the mid 50's, so I found that reassuring. Now I have to figure out the emergency hand brake. The original was under the dash on RHD, but my 4/4SII is LHD. I suppose I could put a conventional lever on the drive shaft "tube" and reroute the cable, but I suspect there may be a clearance issue with the whimsical gearshift knob, or Morgan would have built them that way to begin with..
Any suggestions?


1958 4/4 Series II Roadster
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Solved my loose knurled side screen nut assenbly with some longer screws as the 25mm long originals just weren't biting into the ash door frame as well as they should, I hadn't realised previously but both the triangular chrome plates need to be pulled really securely into the door skin or you’ll never get the side screens to fit well.

If one of the two triangular chrome plates on each door is even slightly loose the side screen will get sucked out fractionally at speed causing a bad seal and excessive wind noise, and all this irrespective of how hard you tighten the knurled nut. I went with 7mm longer stainless steel countersunk Torx security wood screws in 4.2mm x 32mm size (No.8 x 1.1/4"), these were also given a light smear of wood specific two part epoxy to help where the original holes had been chewed out in the ash door frame.

[Linked Image]

Only one of my triangular chrome plates was loose (two of its three screws not biting as well as they should), however, for uniformity I will now replace all the slotted screws in the remaining three plates using these slightly longer screws. You really don't notice they’re not the traditional slotted variety and while it remains comically easy to break into any Morgan, I guess these security screws are at least another line of defense against unwanted side screen removal.

Anyway, getting my one problematic triangular chrome plate to pull in nice and tight has worked a treat, for the first time ever my passenger side screen is now a really good fit and remains so at speed thumbs

The screws I used are available here if anyone is suffering a similar issue, as per the above image they're supplied with the appropriate security Torx bit making the solution a nice simple fit.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182239839122?var=484557423165

Dave.

Last edited by Montegue; 16/01/24 08:04 PM.
1 member likes this: Themorganeer
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I've been getting the bright work on my '58 ready to take to the platers but I had an issue with the Yankee 331 rear marker housing==-it has a small crack that needs repairing before replating.
I asked the owner of the shop and was told I could drill a small lhole to stop the crack, then repair the crack with solder on the inside of the housing---which was how I had planned to make the repair,---and more importantly, that would be compatible with the shop's replating process.
SInce the last two Yankee 331s I found on eBay went for about $100 each----and one of those even had a crack---I'm happy that I can fix what I already have thumbs


1958 4/4 Series II Roadster
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Learner Plates Off!
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Originally Posted by Montegue
Solved my loose knurled side screen nut assenbly with some longer screws as the 25mm long originals just weren't biting into the ash door frame as well as they should, I hadn't realised previously but both the triangular chrome plates need to be pulled really securely into the door skin or you’ll never get the side screens to fit well.

If one of the two triangular chrome plates on each door is even slightly loose the side screen will get sucked out fractionally at speed causing a bad seal and excessive wind noise, and all this irrespective of how hard you tighten the knurled nut.

[Linked Image]



Dave.

Thank you Monteque. Checked mine yesterday, almost all the screws had to be tightened.
Will follow up on this to see if the screws need to be replaced. thumbs


Paul

1990 4/4 1.6 Ford CVH Sold
2014 +4 2.0 Ford
2005 BMW Z4 2.2 6Cyl Sold
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Originally Posted by MATTMOG
Thank you Monteque. Checked mine yesterday, almost all the screws had to be tightened.
Will follow up on this to see if the screws need to be replaced. thumbs

I have a box of matches in the car. If any if the wood screws aren't biting, I stick a match in the hole, break the end of and it acts as an effective rawlplug. If I'm at home I stick a dab of wood glue on the match.


"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
1972 4/4, 1981 MGBGT, 1984 FLHT1340, 1980 XLH1000, 1990 ZX10
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Originally Posted by TBM
Originally Posted by MATTMOG
Thank you Monteque. Checked mine yesterday, almost all the screws had to be tightened.
Will follow up on this to see if the screws need to be replaced. thumbs

I have a box of matches in the car. If any if the wood screws aren't biting, I stick a match in the hole, break the end of and it acts as an effective rawlplug. If I'm at home I stick a dab of wood glue on the match.

Thanks TBM, another good tip. thumbs


Paul

1990 4/4 1.6 Ford CVH Sold
2014 +4 2.0 Ford
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I have several wooden dowels in various diameters in my Workshop..


2005 4/4 1800ccm Duratec and a lot of HONDA CX500.......
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I considered this method and I'm sure it would work, I've used cocktail sticks and wood glue to solve stripped threads on doors hinges around the house which works fine, Gorilla glue works well too as it expands with moisture into a kind of foam so has excellent gap filling qualities.

But nothing beats a slightly longer screw as it's the only way of ensuring you're actually screwing into new fresh wood, a small amount of wood specific two part epoxy on the threads ensures a really permanent fix. I sorted the main problematic triangular plate like this last week and its perfect, so will address the other three in the same way this weekend, the security Torx heads look neat and also stop an opportunist theif removing the side screens with his Swiss army knife or Phillips screw driver thumbs

Last edited by Montegue; 20/01/24 02:37 PM.
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Originally Posted by Montegue
and also stop an opportunist theif removing the side screens with his Swiss army knife or flat head screw driver thumbs

Or just unscrewing the knobs smile smile


"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
1972 4/4, 1981 MGBGT, 1984 FLHT1340, 1980 XLH1000, 1990 ZX10
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Originally Posted by TBM
Originally Posted by Montegue
and also stop an opportunist theif removing the side screens with his Swiss army knife or flat head screw driver thumbs

Or just unscrewing the knobs smile smile

I tend to nip mine up with a drill bit so you'd need gorilla fingers or a set of Stilsons to undo them.

Last edited by Montegue; 20/01/24 11:06 AM.
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