Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Help! oil pushed out of air filter

Just tried to start my car and the above happened.

I know I have read about this problem on here after the car has been laid up for a while, in my case the winter.

I have tried to find the thread but to no avail.

Please M3W boffins, tell me the sequence of actions I need to take now .

See this post?

The S&S engine has a real problem with the so-called dry sump at the bottom of the engine filling with oil (mine gets about 1.5 quarts on sitting). The pressure relives up through the air intakes. No doubt the oil went up the hose into the intakes.

I have to drain the sump before use. There is an allen plug at the bottom to drain the sump. A real PITA, but heck, it is a Morgan

I suspect it is not just the S&S engine but most old style m/cycle engines where the oil is fed from a tank sitting higher than the oil pump, gravity will ever play it`s part. Over the years I have known of taps or non return valves fitted but these "fixes" are not without risks.... Perhaps best to fire it more often if possible to limit the amount building up in the sump at any one time... ?

Common problem on Harley/SS engines that have been left sitting for a while eg whilst in storage over winter, there would be a fine line of oil from the air cleaner. Just clean it up and it disappears when the engine is in use again, although there will always be a hint of an oil mist in the air cleaner.

I might add, if I do not drain the sump I just burn a lot of oil

The obvious comment is to drive it more or turn it over in a ventilated garage. As said it is oil leaking from the tank via the pump. Shut off valves work but if you forget them the engine is rapidly ruined.

On British bikes refurbing the worn pump would help given their age & wear.
I don't know enough about S&S engines to comment on the design.

You could also pull the plug leads and crank the engine to scavenge the oil before starting the engine.

Always always always. Look in the oil tank before you crank a cold motor after a long sit. Youre not checking the oil. You're looking to see if the oil tank is empty. If it is way way down the oil isn't gone it's flooded the sump. No big deal. Just pull the drain plug and catch it in a clean foil cooking pan or similar receptacle and put it back in the oil tank. If you crank a flooded sump you risk not only blowing oil out the intake. As happened here. But if there is enough oil in the crank case you can hydro lock the engine and potential damage the connecting rods.

I think you are perhaps conflating some concepts here. Hydro lock damage to connecting rods can only occur if the cylinders themselves are full of oil, which is not the case with a flooded sump. Cranking an engine with a fully flooded sump can certainly do other damage, such as blow out front and rear crank seals.

Your advice to check the oil before driving after a long layup is spot on. Much grief can be avoided simply by figuring out how much oil really is in the sump before trying to start.

Most X-wedge engines do not have a significant issue with wet sumping, as evidenced by the small number of comments here on the forum. My own car indicates much less than half a quart in the sump even after it's 4-5 month winter layup. Those that do have a serious issue must have an oil pump with greater than intended internal clearances, or perhaps are running a zero weight oil (like 0-40, or 0-50).

FWIW I run 20-50 Valvoline, spec'd for use in air cooled V twins.

Like Steve the engine on my M3W only wet sumps way less than 1/2 a quart after a 6 month winter lay up, I use Amsoil V Twin 20/50. I know people who drain the oil prior to lay up and have a big warning sign on the dash saying "DO NOT START till oil filled".