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Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: May 2015
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Talk Morgan Regular
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I've seen no end of classics with hidden internal corrosion within crimped joints That’s so true but I’ve seen issues on soldered joints particularly when people have used the wrong type of flux. Basically neither system is perfect when the joint is hung out in the weather. That’s why your point about covering the joint is key.
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Joined: May 2012
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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I've seen no end of classics with hidden internal corrosion within crimped joints I do tend to avoid plain brass crimps for that reason. Tin plated crimps do offer a little more environment protection over time with generally lower elec resistance. John do you mind if I add another to your list below. 4. Always do a confidence pull test after crimping. Those coloured are not only for amateures we used to use them on all our panel work when I had a day job. I still use them on my cars.
However like all crimp systems they are subject to a few conditions.
1, You have to have the correct sized crimp for the size of cable you are using.
2, You have to have the correct ratchet crimpimg tool to make them off.
3, You are using good quality crimps and not fakes.
I only buy my crimps from a couple of particular suppliers. I have in the past bought some from auto jumbles and found that they can be just pulled off the cable without any effort.
YMMV
Cheers
John.
Last edited by Rog; 12/02/24 07:20 AM.
Roger
2011 Plus 4
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OP
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This is great feed back, Thanks everyone for the input. I found a great deal on a basic soldering station from CPC (Farnells) so it should be a decent quality from them as opposed to some of the Ebay sellers although in all probability it will be the same Chinese manufacturer. When I did my old 4/4 wiring, I tended to stay away from the coloured pre insulated terminals preferring bullet or spade connectors although I didn't add any solder as I read somewhere that it can cause failures although to be honest, I can't see what harm a small blob of solder could do and surely it would make the joint more secure. Might add some solder now I've got a decent soldering iron. I'll have a practice on some terminals first before I tackle those very small potentiometer lugs. Thanks again for the input. PS, I will also use shrink wrap. I think we've got a roll in the kitchen for wrapping sandwiches...  
Bob
2009 Black Roadster
1999 4/4 2 litre Zetec
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Joined: May 2012
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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I can't see what harm a small blob of solder could do and surely it would make the joint more secure. Might add some solder now I've got a decent soldering iron. The solder can wick back up the wire making the joint less flexible, so then becomes more prone to failure if there is any flex or vibe. Just something perhaps to consider, depending on the situation and if there is any movement.
Roger
2011 Plus 4
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Thanks Roger, Now I remember, it was on an online wiring harness course I did and they said be careful of soldered joints in motorsport because of the type of failure you describe. Apparently soldered joints are a no-no on professional motorsport looms. Edit... PS... this potentiometer is used in the Morgan so plenty of vibration 
Last edited by IvorMog; 12/02/24 10:43 AM.
Bob
2009 Black Roadster
1999 4/4 2 litre Zetec
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Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
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Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: Nov 2015
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I always extend the heatshrink tubing well beyond the soldered joint as this should help spread the load applied if it flexes
It's worth buying one of the little weighted bases with arms and two croc clips for holding work whilst soldering
Jon M
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Salty Sea Dog Member of the Inner Circle
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Salty Sea Dog Member of the Inner Circle
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It's worth buying one of the little weighted bases with arms and two croc clips for holding work whilst soldering Usually marketed under the "Helping Hands" banner
Graham (G4FUJ)
Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly
'11 MINI Countryman Cooper D All4
'90 LR 90 SW
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Member of the Inner Circle
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JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
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