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Joined: May 2012
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Rog Offline
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Originally Posted by Deejay
Originally Posted by Rog
Originally Posted by Deejay
Be good to have a report back when done

No problem Doug.

Don't think it will be an issue. It’s the same shape/profile as the other spouts the hose connects to on the car - thermostat, header tank, head outlet manifold etc.
Interesting concept this, which I think few people would have considered.

FWIW, I measured voltage between the top of my sifab aluminium radiator and the OEM stainless pipe that runs across the top of, and parallel to, the camcover. I got 0.44 Volts!
I don’t know much about the detailed science of galvanic corrosion, but googling around, it would appear that 0.25 volts is seen as a critical figure.
However, in one article from “Allied Corrosion Industries” it listed the 4 requirements for galvanic corrosion to occur.
It stated that you need:
Anode
Cathode
Both to be immersed in the same electrolyte
There must be a return path for electronic current flow, also known as the “metallic path”

So from that, the fact that we have rubber pipes between anode and cathode, in the absence of the metallic path, is it really a problem?
Any contributions from experts welcomed.

My ali rad and top pipe shows about 0.3v. That will decay too, particularly if shorted. So I guess there is some chemistry happening. Probably dependent on the electrolyte/coolant condition too.

Would also be very interested to find out if some clever person knows for sure. I don’t know how the physics plays out with respect to the system level ‘galvanics’. It’s complicated so am airing on the safe side with my new ali T connection.

One thing I do concur with is the 0.25v safeish figure from a galvanic design perspective regarding material selection. It’s always something that needs consideration and very dependent on the operating environment, that’s basically where I’m coming from.

It’s only anecdotal but on my first ali engined Duratec car, I lost two copper/brass cores in a relatively short succession before I changed to an ali rad (I think that CU/brass rad arrangement may have had an earth path). On both occasions the cores sprung multiple powdery pinhole leaks so have been super cautious ever since.


Roger
2011 Plus 4
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7,893
Likes: 241
Just barreling along
Talk Morgan Guru
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Talk Morgan Guru
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7,893
Likes: 241
Originally Posted by Deejay
Originally Posted by Rog
Originally Posted by Deejay
Be good to have a report back when done

No problem Doug.

Don't think it will be an issue. It’s the same shape/profile as the other spouts the hose connects to on the car - thermostat, header tank, head outlet manifold etc.
Interesting concept this, which I think few people would have considered.

FWIW, I measured voltage between the top of my sifab aluminium radiator and the OEM stainless pipe that runs across the top of, and parallel to, the camcover. I got 0.44 Volts!
I don’t know much about the detailed science of galvanic corrosion, but googling around, it would appear that 0.25 volts is seen as a critical figure.
However, in one article from “Allied Corrosion Industries” it listed the 4 requirements for galvanic corrosion to occur.
It stated that you need:
Anode
Cathode
Both to be immersed in the same electrolyte
There must be a return path for electronic current flow, also known as the “metallic path”

So from that, the fact that we have rubber pipes between anode and cathode, in the absence of the metallic path, is it really a problem?
Any contributions from experts welcomed.

Surely the path of conductivity can also be the coolant water + antifreeze which has intimate contact with everything we're concerned about corroding, I once wondered about adding some Fernox as I've found this very effective in stopping internal corrosion in multi metal central heating systems

Last edited by CooperMan; 15/02/24 07:28 PM.

Jon M
Joined: Jun 2022
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I had a new piece of toughened glass cut to shape and fitted it in the frame. I was lucky in that the little screws holding the frame together came out easily.

Last edited by GrumpyPa; 15/02/24 08:12 PM.

1956 Plus 4 4 seater
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 7,920
Likes: 216
Talk Morgan Guru
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Originally Posted by CooperMan
Surely the path of conductivity can also be the coolant water + antifreeze which has intimate contact with everything we're concerned about corroding, I once wondered about adding some Fernox as I've found this very effective in stopping internal corrosion in multi metal central heating systems

In essence I would agree Jon. However it seems the best galvanic protection in engines is to use de-ionised water and/or anti-freeze inhibitor as the coolant, which you probably already have. The former cannot act as an electrolyte as it doesn't conduct so important to top up only with that.

FWIW I'm so unconcerned I'm not even going to get out one of my multimeters wink


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 128
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Posts: 128
Today, I managed to start my Morgan.

On Sunday, I managed to leave my dashcam plugged in and completely flattened the battery. 24 hours reconditioning with a CTX 5.0 charger (amazing product) and started within a second :-)

My MOT was due on Monday, so today I was changing oil, and spark plugs.

The plugs as the AA engineer had taken them out to inspect them, as she was having trouble starting, even connected to the AA van's battery. The plugs were looking a little tired, and I've not had a new set in a while. She certainly seemed to start and run more easily.

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 128
L - Learner Plates On
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Originally Posted by CooperMan
I once wondered about adding some Fernox as I've found this very effective in stopping internal corrosion in multi metal central heating systems

I'd be worried about how heat stable Fernox is at the high temperatures in a car engine. Yes, I know it runs through a boiler, but modern boilers don't run hotter than the flow temperature...

Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 40
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 40
Originally Posted by cooperMan
Surely the path of conductivity can also be the coolant water + antifreeze which has intimate contact with everything we're concerned about corroding, I once wondered about adding some Fernox as I've found this very effective in stopping internal corrosion in multi metal central heating systems

Yes, but as I understand it, the coolant is the path which will conduct current from anode to cathode, but for actual current to flow, (and corrosion to take place) we need a complete circuit and that’s where the metallic return path comes in, to complete the circuit to allow current to flow from cathode back to anode.
So, I don't think we need to worry too much but looking at Rog’s experiences from the past, conclude that for peace of mind an aluminium tee might be the best choice, at least to get a good night’s sleep.

Last edited by Deejay; 15/02/24 09:10 PM. Reason: syntax

Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
Joined: Aug 2011
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Talk Morgan Guru
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I moved the 4/4 to access my 2 stroke strimmer.
So far, attempts to start the strimmer have failed.
swear

Bud
4/4 - Stanley


Bud
4/4 "Stanley"
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 17
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 17
I have been told that 90% of the time, that strimmers won't start, is caused by the two stroke petrol mix having "gone off"

Last edited by IcePack; 16/02/24 02:21 PM.

4/4 Ivory 4.1:1 axle, Mercedes A200 AMG
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 26,747
Likes: 419
Member of the Inner Circle
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Clean & gap the plug. Change the fuel & clean the filter.


JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
2025 MG ZS EV aka Trigger
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