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Sorry I can't delete my post


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That No. 1 rusty plug….I have had rusty plugs like most but have never seen one that bad. What surprises me is the rust all along the threads as well! Makes me wonder if it was ever screwed down properly in the first place?


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Excellent job, would be interested where you sourced the catch can as it looks smart. Also, what did you do to clean up the valves?

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Originally Posted by Deejay
That No. 1 rusty plug….I have had rusty plugs like most but have never seen one that bad. What surprises me is the rust all along the threads as well! Makes me wonder if it was ever screwed down properly in the first place?

I agree, it certainly doesn't look as though it was installed properly. I've put in a set of new NGK plugs now.


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Originally Posted by KennyW
Excellent job, would be interested where you sourced the catch can as it looks smart. Also, what did you do to clean up the valves?


Catch can from here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18569811...r=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

ERG/Brake Cleaner. As posted elsewhere on this thread, small wire brushes and picks. Set piston to TDC (spark plugs removed) spray the cleaner in and let it soak for 10 to 20 minutes. Wire brush, pick/scrape heavier deposits, then mop out chamber with rag strips. Repeat as necessary until clean, then repeat process with each cylinder. When valves were open I also cleaned around the rim with dry cloth strips.


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An excellent job done on the valves there.

My no.1 plug was also rusted when first removed, but not as bad as yours. All other plugs were fine. A cover plate over the engine would be a good investment.

My catch tank is in exactly the same place as yours - but it vents to atmosphere instead of back into the inlet. Shall be monitoring to see how much if any oil it catches.

Hopefully inlet valve carbonisation should now be eliminated.


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Have been following this post for a while now and it seams that there is some build up on the back of the valves even at fairly low k’s but if caught early it will have very minimal effect and the main task is to stop or at least slow down any further build up. My current plan is to use a non vented twin inlet catch can to take the fumes from both the cam cover and sump then return into the manifold sealing off the other return point. Hopefully this will remove most of the contaminants maintain the negative crankcase pressure and not upset any of the sensors.
Any comments on this approach would be appreciated.

Merry Christmas and a happy new year to all an TALk MOG from central north coast NSW Australia


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The engine cover on all Duratecs and GDI's is vital to protect the plugs from corrosion. It's an overlooked and relatively easy fix. Some of the other engines have exposed coil packs. The S1 Roadster is one example, and again, easily resolved.


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I've been removing the inlet manifold on my GDI today. I nearly gave up with all those pesky pipe clips, finally got the manifold off. Thanks to all the posts on here, they helped a lot. Put it on some paper down so as to keep it clean (ish). Turned round and wow a puddle of oil out of the manifold on the floor. That yellow line is 1in wide.
No wonder there is quite a lot on the valves.

[Linked Image]

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Surprised by this. My manifold was bone dry on removal, which could partly explain the goodi(ish) condition of the valves.

What I don’t understand is how such a large amount of oil could accumulate in the manifold. Normally, the oil could only enter the manifold via the crankcase breather in the form of a mist, the breather only delivers this mist when the engine is running and when the engine is running the mist should be sucked straight back into the cylinder via the valves.

Perhaps a compression test on each pot when it’s all back together?


Chris

2015 Plus 4 Silverlake Blue
(2014 3.7 Roadster Crystal Blue)
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