Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Steel profile easy hood

The glue disappeared at 3 little places but the rubber is in good condition. Is it possible to reglue?

Yes use a neoprene based glue like evostick. But why not fit a new one?

I found this old thread on header rail seal glue. Shawn at Allon White replaced mine when just two years old. He recommended an industrial contact adhesive similar to the one I mention in the thread, although note it's volatility. I don't think Evostick is up to the task. Shortly after replacement the hood was fitted to screen with some talcum powder to ease it on, so no need to use any packing. This ensured best fit to screen when glue went off.

The new seal gave a more watertight fit to screen as the four semi-circular cutouts were made to give snug fit around sun visor mounts which the factory had failed to do.

Evo stick or other neoprene glues will work. The surfaces need to be clean and you use a thin filming. You wait for the film to dry slightly and then press together.
I worked as Global Supply Chain Director for an industrial rubber company. We made or bought in glue. Whilst industrial ones have more neoprene and faster evaporating solvents in them they are essentially the same. Technique and preparation is all.

If you can get industrial glue then it is better but be aware there are dangerous solvents like toluene in them so ventilate the area and minimize exposure to the fumes. Ideally do it outside.

It seems there are many variants of Evostik John. Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems that a contact but not necessarily impact adhesive would be best to allow in this case, the seal to be eased and then clamped into position by act of attaching header rail to screen.

Yes contact types are what you need.

One more comment the really strongly bonded industrial adhesives are twn pack with an initiator added to the bulk glue. These bond rubber so strongly you would find it very hard to remove the seal when you next want to change it. I would avoid these.

Hello

It is ok now, a little glue on the corner and silicone spray for the rubber. Made by the mecano.
I had to shorter the little pieces for a good tension of the capote

Having just had to replace a nylock nut on my header rail attachment which had fallen off, it may be worth mentioning the following:



There is a round head bolt with it's thread pointing forwards that provides the rail attachment each side as shown above. A washer sits between the two attachment surfaces of rail to frame. It appears the nylock securing nut should be only lightly tightened to provide some minimal header rail movement when dropping it onto screen frame. I noticed that header rail on side I was working on difficult to attach on first attempt after tightening fully. Slackening just a tad made all the difference.

Same happened to me Richard.

I found that the tightness of that nut makes quite a difference. Too tight and the hood becomes harder to fit but too loose and the hood frame becomes very "floppy" and rattles.

BTW, Dave W has showcased the refitting of the hood seal in this months Miscellany.