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Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,465 Likes: 171
Charter Member
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Charter Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,465 Likes: 171 |
Also, too tight and the weld can break.
Paul
Costock, UK
Plus Four 75th - Furka Rouge - Pip
Disco 5
Teddy - 17h1 Irish Draught cross
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,675 Likes: 491
Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
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Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,675 Likes: 491 |
If you take the joint apart that Richard shows and swop out the steel washer for a thin nylon one it smooths the action and stops the rattle of metal to metal contact
Jon M
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1 member likes this:
IvorMog |
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,116 Likes: 68
Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,116 Likes: 68 |
If you take the joint apart that Richard shows and swop out the steel washer for a thin nylon one it smooths the action and stops the rattle of metal to metal contact  Another nice and very helpful tip!
Last edited by bmgermany; 11/03/24 06:27 PM.
2005 4/4 1800ccm Duratec and a lot of HONDA CX500.......
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Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,013 Likes: 119
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,013 Likes: 119 |
Perhaps a daft question here!
If you use a contact adhesive like evostick and you allow the normal touch dry method before adjoining the two items how in hell's name do you manage to push the rubber seal into the header rail channel as on contact there is usually instant adhesion and this could prevent further movement which would severely limit the ability to seat the rubber seal fully/correctly into the channel. Although I haven't tried with evostick when I replaced my seal I used an adhesive which was a one part product called
Amazing Goop. I researched it as a product and it was recommended for rubber to metal bonding. When installing the seal I really wasn't sure I had made the correct choice as it didn't seem to have good adhesive properties so I did clamp it in place. firstly by fitting a straight timber former into the flat center section which I glued first then when dry I applied the adhesive to the curved ends one by one using a template that I made to follow the curves at the ends of the header rail and it seems to have been successful being done almost a year ago. One true advantage I did find was that any glue that had squeezed out just simply rubbed away with little effort.
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,799 Likes: 4
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,799 Likes: 4 |
How do they do it at the factory ??
Bob
2009 Black Roadster
1999 4/4 2 litre Zetec
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 22,359 Likes: 353
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
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Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 22,359 Likes: 353 |
Never seen it done at the factory Bob, but imagining somebody doing that day in day out explains why the cut outs are Heath Robinson.
It begs for a leather punch of the right diameter but doing that before fitting could easily miss the spot, and when fitted, access is rubbish. There's a degree of stretch in the seal and so it's important not to stretch when fitting.
"Next Time" I'll research the glue, and fit the bottom flat section on day 1. Doing the sides on day 2. This appears to be a simple job until the seal arrives flat and a few inches too long.
DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 7,553 Likes: 88
Talk Morgan Guru
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Talk Morgan Guru
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 7,553 Likes: 88 |
Also, too tight and the weld can break. +1. This happened to me a few years ago, just prior to a holiday trip. Fortunately; a quick phone call, a trip to Berrybrook and they fixed it for me. Note: Berrybrook also deal with steam traction engines, so have considerable welding skills in house. Bud 4/4 - Stanley
Bud
4/4 "Stanley"
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