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Jonny72
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Also, too tight and the weld can break.


Paul
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If you take the joint apart that Richard shows and swop out the steel washer for a thin nylon one it smooths the action and stops the rattle of metal to metal contact


Jon M
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Originally Posted by CooperMan
If you take the joint apart that Richard shows and swop out the steel washer for a thin nylon one it smooths the action and stops the rattle of metal to metal contact
thumbs

Another nice and very helpful tip!

Last edited by bmgermany; 11/03/24 06:27 PM.

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Perhaps a daft question here!

If you use a contact adhesive like evostick and you allow the normal touch dry method before adjoining the two items how in hell's name do you manage to push the rubber seal into the header rail channel as on contact there is usually instant adhesion and this could prevent further movement which would severely limit the ability to seat the rubber seal fully/correctly into the channel. Although I haven't tried with evostick when I replaced my seal I used an adhesive which was a one part product called
Amazing Goop. I researched it as a product and it was recommended for rubber to metal bonding. When installing the seal I really wasn't sure I had made the correct choice as it didn't seem to have good adhesive properties so I did clamp it in place. firstly by fitting a straight timber former into the flat center section which I glued first then when dry I applied the adhesive to the curved ends one by one using a template that I made to follow the curves at the ends of the header rail and it seems to have been successful being done almost a year ago. One true advantage I did find was that any glue that had squeezed out just simply rubbed away with little effort.

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How do they do it at the factory ??


Bob

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Never seen it done at the factory Bob, but imagining somebody doing that day in day out explains why the cut outs are Heath Robinson.

It begs for a leather punch of the right diameter but doing that before fitting could easily miss the spot, and when fitted, access is rubbish. There's a degree of stretch in the seal and so it's important not to stretch when fitting.

"Next Time" I'll research the glue, and fit the bottom flat section on day 1. Doing the sides on day 2. This appears to be a simple job until the seal arrives flat and a few inches too long.


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Originally Posted by Paul F
Also, too tight and the weld can break.

+1. This happened to me a few years ago, just prior to a holiday trip.

Fortunately; a quick phone call, a trip to Berrybrook and they fixed it for me.

Note: Berrybrook also deal with steam traction engines, so have considerable welding skills in house.

Bud
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